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To Date
avid.dabblerupdated payout for 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ2019/07/22 15:26:00
avid.dabblerupdated payout for 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ
2019/07/22 15:26:00
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ |
| Transaction Info | Block #34888479/Virtual Operation 4294967295:8 |
View Raw JSON Data
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}avid.dabblerupdated payout for 1968-bsa-starfire2019/07/17 18:52:30
avid.dabblerupdated payout for 1968-bsa-starfire
2019/07/17 18:52:30
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 1968-bsa-starfire |
| Transaction Info | Block #34748781/Virtual Operation 4294967295:2 |
View Raw JSON Data
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}techtekeffective vote applied for @avid.dabbler / 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ2019/07/17 04:32:48
techtekeffective vote applied for @avid.dabbler / 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ
2019/07/17 04:32:48
| voter | techtek |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| weight | 215843 |
| rshares | 44444677881 |
| permlink | 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ |
| pending payout | 0.016 HBD |
| total vote weight | 215843 |
| Transaction Info | Block #34731603/Trx a28882c09b6e28678b91e5a94172c0cc40d2ed95 |
View Raw JSON Data
{
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}techtekupvoted (100.00%) @avid.dabbler / 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ2019/07/17 04:32:48
techtekupvoted (100.00%) @avid.dabbler / 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ
2019/07/17 04:32:48
| voter | techtek |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| weight | 10000 (100.00%) |
| permlink | 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ |
| Transaction Info | Block #34731603/Trx a28882c09b6e28678b91e5a94172c0cc40d2ed95 |
View Raw JSON Data
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}avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ2019/07/15 15:26:03
avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ
2019/07/15 15:26:03
| body |  Here we have a Wm. Johnson & Son (Opus 677) tracker pipe organ from 1887. Moving around inside it is probably the closest a human can get to feeling like a gerbil in a maze. One of the design flaws was having the tracker linkages for the Swell directly above the access point for the walkboard over the Great. Over the last 100+ years these delicate wooden squares have been bumped occasionally and repaired poorly. Binder clips are not industry standard.  We only recently began caring for this instrument and one of the first calls we received was for a key on the Swell that was no longer working - a binder clip had fallen off. No spare squares (the L-shaped piece of wood) were to be found in the organ, and checking a few suppliers we found that no perfect match was available. We took a sample from the organ back to our facility and our man Derek had a go at rendering the part in SketchUp .  We have a Lulzbot 3D printer and I've been doing all prints from PLA lately because they don't shrink (not much at least) and the plastic is far stronger than ABS. We printed a prototype and it seemed strong, so we printed a half dozen and took them down to try them out in the pipe organ. The replacement squares worked perfectly! The weakness is actually in the wood linkages - they are so brittle after 100 years that working with them tends to break them.  Thought this was a pretty cool 'old meets new' situation. The wood squares from 1887, when not disturbed, still work perfectly well. I wonder if the plastic replacements will last half that long.... |
| title | 3D Printing Parts for a 1887 Pipe Organ |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ |
| json metadata | {"tags":["printing3d","pipeorgans","rendering","lulzbot","print3d"],"image":["https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmdZ6EXRoQEeuCfkZcy7jYZSqZPiqrXnDhRjqJ53qdsN6m/Lakewood%20UMC%20organ%20facade.jpg","https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmVWRdCuWYjYbFNkWTeh8VzZR7Wgkd7QaN32Hz5GQtZJS5/IMG_20190410_092910153.jpg","https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmP1rjbLxjCfjEUK8AKw8Uq61hM8LqvJUT3rGx8eUhv66e/IMG951526.jpg","https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmc5hV58qZQDMftr3XKAVtmxL3cUtGWZycZPRa8g5rLCxX/IMG_20190711_101913423.jpg"],"app":"steemit/0.1","format":"markdown"} |
| parent author | |
| parent permlink | printing3d |
| Transaction Info | Block #34687128/Trx b8098ac082d7449c1e3dead84e08dd1126c434b7 |
View Raw JSON Data
{
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"body": "\n\nHere we have a Wm. Johnson & Son (Opus 677) tracker pipe organ from 1887. Moving around inside it is probably the closest a human can get to feeling like a gerbil in a maze. One of the design flaws was having the tracker linkages for the Swell directly above the access point for the walkboard over the Great. Over the last 100+ years these delicate wooden squares have been bumped occasionally and repaired poorly. Binder clips are not industry standard. \n\n\n\nWe only recently began caring for this instrument and one of the first calls we received was for a key on the Swell that was no longer working - a binder clip had fallen off. No spare squares (the L-shaped piece of wood) were to be found in the organ, and checking a few suppliers we found that no perfect match was available. We took a sample from the organ back to our facility and our man Derek had a go at rendering the part in SketchUp . \n\n\n\nWe have a Lulzbot 3D printer and I've been doing all prints from PLA lately because they don't shrink (not much at least) and the plastic is far stronger than ABS. We printed a prototype and it seemed strong, so we printed a half dozen and took them down to try them out in the pipe organ. The replacement squares worked perfectly! The weakness is actually in the wood linkages - they are so brittle after 100 years that working with them tends to break them. \n\n\n\nThought this was a pretty cool 'old meets new' situation. The wood squares from 1887, when not disturbed, still work perfectly well. I wonder if the plastic replacements will last half that long....",
"title": "3D Printing Parts for a 1887 Pipe Organ",
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}avid.dabblerupvoted (100.00%) @cryptos / you-just-got-your-first-3d-printer-so-now-what2019/07/15 15:25:24
avid.dabblerupvoted (100.00%) @cryptos / you-just-got-your-first-3d-printer-so-now-what
2019/07/15 15:25:24
| voter | avid.dabbler |
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| permlink | you-just-got-your-first-3d-printer-so-now-what |
| Transaction Info | Block #34687115/Trx 24239bd3b82a397170c5fc1dfb790dc4cd0a5519 |
View Raw JSON Data
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}fyrstikkeneffective vote applied for @avid.dabbler / 1968-bsa-starfire2019/07/10 19:20:33
fyrstikkeneffective vote applied for @avid.dabbler / 1968-bsa-starfire
2019/07/10 19:20:33
| voter | fyrstikken |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| weight | 4562 (45.62%) |
| rshares | 20601052 |
| permlink | 1968-bsa-starfire |
| pending payout | 0.000 HBD |
| total vote weight | 4562 |
| Transaction Info | Block #34547962/Trx b29ea86008a5cdec62744d0982c1136462f7a07a |
View Raw JSON Data
{
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}fyrstikkenupvoted (1.00%) @avid.dabbler / 1968-bsa-starfire2019/07/10 19:20:33
fyrstikkenupvoted (1.00%) @avid.dabbler / 1968-bsa-starfire
2019/07/10 19:20:33
| voter | fyrstikken |
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| Transaction Info | Block #34547962/Trx b29ea86008a5cdec62744d0982c1136462f7a07a |
View Raw JSON Data
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}avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 1968-bsa-starfire2019/07/10 18:54:45
avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 1968-bsa-starfire
2019/07/10 18:54:45
| body |  Gifted to me by my dad, but not clear if it was a "Here's a bike for you!" or "Here's a bike for you to keep here until I want to use it!" I'm treating it as the former. How to start a BSA: 1. Slowly work the kick starter once or twice to 'warm it up' 2. Turn on the ignition 3. Open the fuel petcocks (both sides) 4. Prime the carburetor with the "tickler" on the side of the carb until you see fuel 5. *Stroke* the kickstarter the full distance. Don't kick too hard! Did it work? Here's what's under the cover behind the kickstarter. I reattached the lever for a reference.  This Starfire starts on the second or third kick. The clutch is brand new so the discs don't separate quickly yet, and thus I've had to adjust the clutch push rod a few times when the kickstarter lever moves with no resistance. If you need to adjust your clutch then check out the other side cover where the two big screws are. You'll want the lower one on the right.  Make sure you have some slack in your clutch cable and then loosen up the nut. If you tighten the screw slowly you'll feel when it touches the push rod. Back the screw off a quarter turn and then tighten the nut.  This bike, although it looks nice, still needs a fair amount of work. Stay tuned! |
| title | 1968 BSA Starfire |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 1968-bsa-starfire |
| json metadata | {"tags":["motorcycle","mechanic","british","antiques","classic"],"image":["https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmajZYrL26QvVK5wPRq8DxToT7rXYs137JicoyM3s1xnV8/IMG_20190623_093035624.jpg","https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmUUTbZoVKDZVJjc6oUD5DKA2DBUi3RsYNw6uj4yCf4W2V/IMG_20190623_101833140_HDR.jpg","https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmZn3zsf4XsxaYRF7pk24UJ9c7Bp3tSvJi9hcUZASTR6CA/IMG_20190623_134928012_HDR.jpg","https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmd9DLajZ2eUwt3e6PBE2JJzV2y6QK9YgKA2chAP4BZ5Z3/IMG_20190623_134954520_HDR.jpg"],"app":"steemit/0.1","format":"markdown"} |
| parent author | |
| parent permlink | motorcycle |
| Transaction Info | Block #34547446/Trx 4281aa126c93b4730d7a2a2b8bb1ec7a1669f8c1 |
View Raw JSON Data
{
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"body": "\n\nGifted to me by my dad, but not clear if it was a \"Here's a bike for you!\" or \"Here's a bike for you to keep here until I want to use it!\" I'm treating it as the former.\n\nHow to start a BSA:\n\n1. Slowly work the kick starter once or twice to 'warm it up'\n2. Turn on the ignition\n3. Open the fuel petcocks (both sides)\n4. Prime the carburetor with the \"tickler\" on the side of the carb until you see fuel\n5. *Stroke* the kickstarter the full distance. Don't kick too hard! \n\n Did it work? \n\nHere's what's under the cover behind the kickstarter. I reattached the lever for a reference. \n\n\n\nThis Starfire starts on the second or third kick. The clutch is brand new so the discs don't separate quickly yet, and thus I've had to adjust the clutch push rod a few times when the kickstarter lever moves with no resistance. If you need to adjust your clutch then check out the other side cover where the two big screws are. You'll want the lower one on the right. \n\n\n\nMake sure you have some slack in your clutch cable and then loosen up the nut. If you tighten the screw slowly you'll feel when it touches the push rod. Back the screw off a quarter turn and then tighten the nut. \n\n\n\nThis bike, although it looks nice, still needs a fair amount of work. Stay tuned!",
"title": "1968 BSA Starfire",
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}avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 1968-bsa-starfire2019/07/10 18:52:33
avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 1968-bsa-starfire
2019/07/10 18:52:33
| body |  Gifted to me by my dad, but not clear if it was a "Here's a bike for you!" or "Here's a bike for you to keep here until I want to use it!" I'm treating it as the former. How to start a BSA: 1. Slowly work the kick starter once or twice to 'warm it up' 2. Turn on the ignition 3. Open the fuel petcocks (both sides) 4. Prime the carburetor with the "tickler" on the side of the carb until you see fuel 5. *Stroke* the kickstarter the full distance. Don't kick too hard! Did it work? Here's what's under the cover behind the kickstarter. I reattached the lever for a reference.  This Starfire starts on the second or third kick. The clutch is brand new so the discs don't separate quickly yet, and thus I've had to adjust the clutch push rod a few times when the kickstarter lever moves with no resistance. If you need to adjust your clutch then check out the other side cover where the two big screws are. You'll want the lower one on the right.  Make sure you have some slack in your clutch cable and then loosen up the nut. If you tighten the screw slowly you'll feel when it touches the push rod. Back the screw off a quarter turn and then tighten the nut.  This bike, although it looks nice, still needs a fair amount of work. Stay tuned! |
| title | 1968 BSA Starfire |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 1968-bsa-starfire |
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"body": "\n\nGifted to me by my dad, but not clear if it was a \"Here's a bike for you!\" or \"Here's a bike for you to keep here until I want to use it!\" I'm treating it as the former.\n\nHow to start a BSA:\n\n1. Slowly work the kick starter once or twice to 'warm it up'\n2. Turn on the ignition\n3. Open the fuel petcocks (both sides)\n4. Prime the carburetor with the \"tickler\" on the side of the carb until you see fuel\n5. *Stroke* the kickstarter the full distance. Don't kick too hard! \n\n Did it work? \n\nHere's what's under the cover behind the kickstarter. I reattached the lever for a reference. \n\n\n\nThis Starfire starts on the second or third kick. The clutch is brand new so the discs don't separate quickly yet, and thus I've had to adjust the clutch push rod a few times when the kickstarter lever moves with no resistance. If you need to adjust your clutch then check out the other side cover where the two big screws are. You'll want the lower one on the right. \n\n\n\nMake sure you have some slack in your clutch cable and then loosen up the nut. If you tighten the screw slowly you'll feel when it touches the push rod. Back the screw off a quarter turn and then tighten the nut. \n\n\n\nThis bike, although it looks nice, still needs a fair amount of work. Stay tuned!",
"title": "1968 BSA Starfire",
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noisemachineaccount was created by @noisemachine
2019/06/22 18:33:03
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