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techtekupvoted (100.00%) @avid.dabbler / 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ2019/07/17 04:32:45
techtekupvoted (100.00%) @avid.dabbler / 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ
2019/07/17 04:32:45
| voter | techtek |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ |
| weight | 10000 (100.00%) |
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View Raw JSON Data
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}avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ2019/07/15 15:26:00
avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ
2019/07/15 15:26:00
| parent author | |
| parent permlink | printing3d |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 3d-printing-parts-for-a-1887-pipe-organ |
| title | 3D Printing Parts for a 1887 Pipe Organ |
| body |  Here we have a Wm. Johnson & Son (Opus 677) tracker pipe organ from 1887. Moving around inside it is probably the closest a human can get to feeling like a gerbil in a maze. One of the design flaws was having the tracker linkages for the Swell directly above the access point for the walkboard over the Great. Over the last 100+ years these delicate wooden squares have been bumped occasionally and repaired poorly. Binder clips are not industry standard.  We only recently began caring for this instrument and one of the first calls we received was for a key on the Swell that was no longer working - a binder clip had fallen off. No spare squares (the L-shaped piece of wood) were to be found in the organ, and checking a few suppliers we found that no perfect match was available. We took a sample from the organ back to our facility and our man Derek had a go at rendering the part in SketchUp .  We have a Lulzbot 3D printer and I've been doing all prints from PLA lately because they don't shrink (not much at least) and the plastic is far stronger than ABS. We printed a prototype and it seemed strong, so we printed a half dozen and took them down to try them out in the pipe organ. The replacement squares worked perfectly! The weakness is actually in the wood linkages - they are so brittle after 100 years that working with them tends to break them.  Thought this was a pretty cool 'old meets new' situation. The wood squares from 1887, when not disturbed, still work perfectly well. I wonder if the plastic replacements will last half that long.... |
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}avid.dabblerupvoted (100.00%) @cryptos / you-just-got-your-first-3d-printer-so-now-what2019/07/15 15:25:21
avid.dabblerupvoted (100.00%) @cryptos / you-just-got-your-first-3d-printer-so-now-what
2019/07/15 15:25:21
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}fyrstikkenupvoted (1.00%) @avid.dabbler / 1968-bsa-starfire2019/07/10 19:20:30
fyrstikkenupvoted (1.00%) @avid.dabbler / 1968-bsa-starfire
2019/07/10 19:20:30
| voter | fyrstikken |
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}avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 1968-bsa-starfire2019/07/10 18:54:42
avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 1968-bsa-starfire
2019/07/10 18:54:42
| parent author | |
| parent permlink | motorcycle |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 1968-bsa-starfire |
| title | 1968 BSA Starfire |
| body |  Gifted to me by my dad, but not clear if it was a "Here's a bike for you!" or "Here's a bike for you to keep here until I want to use it!" I'm treating it as the former. How to start a BSA: 1. Slowly work the kick starter once or twice to 'warm it up' 2. Turn on the ignition 3. Open the fuel petcocks (both sides) 4. Prime the carburetor with the "tickler" on the side of the carb until you see fuel 5. *Stroke* the kickstarter the full distance. Don't kick too hard! Did it work? Here's what's under the cover behind the kickstarter. I reattached the lever for a reference.  This Starfire starts on the second or third kick. The clutch is brand new so the discs don't separate quickly yet, and thus I've had to adjust the clutch push rod a few times when the kickstarter lever moves with no resistance. If you need to adjust your clutch then check out the other side cover where the two big screws are. You'll want the lower one on the right.  Make sure you have some slack in your clutch cable and then loosen up the nut. If you tighten the screw slowly you'll feel when it touches the push rod. Back the screw off a quarter turn and then tighten the nut.  This bike, although it looks nice, still needs a fair amount of work. Stay tuned! |
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| Transaction Info | Block #34547446/Trx 4281aa126c93b4730d7a2a2b8bb1ec7a1669f8c1 |
View Raw JSON Data
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"body": "\n\nGifted to me by my dad, but not clear if it was a \"Here's a bike for you!\" or \"Here's a bike for you to keep here until I want to use it!\" I'm treating it as the former.\n\nHow to start a BSA:\n\n1. Slowly work the kick starter once or twice to 'warm it up'\n2. Turn on the ignition\n3. Open the fuel petcocks (both sides)\n4. Prime the carburetor with the \"tickler\" on the side of the carb until you see fuel\n5. *Stroke* the kickstarter the full distance. Don't kick too hard! \n\n Did it work? \n\nHere's what's under the cover behind the kickstarter. I reattached the lever for a reference. \n\n\n\nThis Starfire starts on the second or third kick. The clutch is brand new so the discs don't separate quickly yet, and thus I've had to adjust the clutch push rod a few times when the kickstarter lever moves with no resistance. If you need to adjust your clutch then check out the other side cover where the two big screws are. You'll want the lower one on the right. \n\n\n\nMake sure you have some slack in your clutch cable and then loosen up the nut. If you tighten the screw slowly you'll feel when it touches the push rod. Back the screw off a quarter turn and then tighten the nut. \n\n\n\nThis bike, although it looks nice, still needs a fair amount of work. Stay tuned!",
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}avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 1968-bsa-starfire2019/07/10 18:52:30
avid.dabblerpublished a new post: 1968-bsa-starfire
2019/07/10 18:52:30
| parent author | |
| parent permlink | motorcycle |
| author | avid.dabbler |
| permlink | 1968-bsa-starfire |
| title | 1968 BSA Starfire |
| body |  Gifted to me by my dad, but not clear if it was a "Here's a bike for you!" or "Here's a bike for you to keep here until I want to use it!" I'm treating it as the former. How to start a BSA: 1. Slowly work the kick starter once or twice to 'warm it up' 2. Turn on the ignition 3. Open the fuel petcocks (both sides) 4. Prime the carburetor with the "tickler" on the side of the carb until you see fuel 5. *Stroke* the kickstarter the full distance. Don't kick too hard! Did it work? Here's what's under the cover behind the kickstarter. I reattached the lever for a reference.  This Starfire starts on the second or third kick. The clutch is brand new so the discs don't separate quickly yet, and thus I've had to adjust the clutch push rod a few times when the kickstarter lever moves with no resistance. If you need to adjust your clutch then check out the other side cover where the two big screws are. You'll want the lower one on the right.  Make sure you have some slack in your clutch cable and then loosen up the nut. If you tighten the screw slowly you'll feel when it touches the push rod. Back the screw off a quarter turn and then tighten the nut.  This bike, although it looks nice, still needs a fair amount of work. Stay tuned! |
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"permlink": "1968-bsa-starfire",
"title": "1968 BSA Starfire",
"body": "\n\nGifted to me by my dad, but not clear if it was a \"Here's a bike for you!\" or \"Here's a bike for you to keep here until I want to use it!\" I'm treating it as the former.\n\nHow to start a BSA:\n\n1. Slowly work the kick starter once or twice to 'warm it up'\n2. Turn on the ignition\n3. Open the fuel petcocks (both sides)\n4. Prime the carburetor with the \"tickler\" on the side of the carb until you see fuel\n5. *Stroke* the kickstarter the full distance. Don't kick too hard! \n\n Did it work? \n\nHere's what's under the cover behind the kickstarter. I reattached the lever for a reference. \n\n\n\nThis Starfire starts on the second or third kick. The clutch is brand new so the discs don't separate quickly yet, and thus I've had to adjust the clutch push rod a few times when the kickstarter lever moves with no resistance. If you need to adjust your clutch then check out the other side cover where the two big screws are. You'll want the lower one on the right. \n\n\n\nMake sure you have some slack in your clutch cable and then loosen up the nut. If you tighten the screw slowly you'll feel when it touches the push rod. Back the screw off a quarter turn and then tighten the nut. \n\n\n\nThis bike, although it looks nice, still needs a fair amount of work. Stay tuned!",
"json_metadata": "{\"tags\":[\"motorcycle\",\"vintagebike\",\"bsa\",\"antiquemotorcycle\",\"motorcyclerepair\"],\"image\":[\"https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmajZYrL26QvVK5wPRq8DxToT7rXYs137JicoyM3s1xnV8/IMG_20190623_093035624.jpg\",\"https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmUUTbZoVKDZVJjc6oUD5DKA2DBUi3RsYNw6uj4yCf4W2V/IMG_20190623_101833140_HDR.jpg\",\"https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmZn3zsf4XsxaYRF7pk24UJ9c7Bp3tSvJi9hcUZASTR6CA/IMG_20190623_134928012_HDR.jpg\",\"https://cdn.steemitimages.com/DQmd9DLajZ2eUwt3e6PBE2JJzV2y6QK9YgKA2chAP4BZ5Z3/IMG_20190623_134954520_HDR.jpg\"],\"app\":\"steemit/0.1\",\"format\":\"markdown\"}"
}
]
}noisemachinecreated a new account: @avid.dabbler2019/06/22 18:33:00
noisemachinecreated a new account: @avid.dabbler
2019/06/22 18:33:00
| fee | 3.000 STEEM |
| creator | noisemachine |
| new account name | avid.dabbler |
| owner | {"weight_threshold":1,"account_auths":[],"key_auths":[["STM8kPZQQiGQJmksFpRGock2jRkT51KMVYXDMQ95wqvmhjQEMneAj",1]]} |
| active | {"weight_threshold":1,"account_auths":[],"key_auths":[["STM7WXaDjpimxFFYR83XeCXFcpbYQUeZQouS9m1v8hACDVGMzqPUd",1]]} |
| posting | {"weight_threshold":1,"account_auths":[],"key_auths":[["STM578Xaj6rBVXX8mV8PGdwWQfMRS7ytMzLyAjJ4VFhpjGNYSqhyK",1]]} |
| memo key | STM8b54H8a3hSJiYoXZh9MoKoGYKV7HhJFvKth2SrSSWiDqwewsFc |
| json metadata | {} |
| Transaction Info | Block #34029272/Trx def11f0b5ee1dfa79510ab6de20ff231146fd555 |
View Raw JSON Data
{
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"timestamp": "2019-06-22T18:33:00",
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}Manabar
Voting Power0.00%
Downvote Power0.00%
Resource Credits100.00%
Reputation Progress0.00%
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}Account Metadata
| POSTING JSON METADATA | |
| None | |
| JSON METADATA | |
| None |
{
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}Auth Keys
Owner
Single Signature
Public Keys
STM8kPZQQiGQJmksFpRGock2jRkT51KMVYXDMQ95wqvmhjQEMneAj1/1
Active
Single Signature
Public Keys
STM7WXaDjpimxFFYR83XeCXFcpbYQUeZQouS9m1v8hACDVGMzqPUd1/1
Posting
Single Signature
Public Keys
STM578Xaj6rBVXX8mV8PGdwWQfMRS7ytMzLyAjJ4VFhpjGNYSqhyK1/1
Memo
STM8b54H8a3hSJiYoXZh9MoKoGYKV7HhJFvKth2SrSSWiDqwewsFc
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}Witness Votes
0 / 30
No active witness votes.
[]