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      "body": "Congratulations @creativnotions! You received a personal award!\n\n<table><tr><td>https://steemitimages.com/70x70/http://steemitboard.com/@creativnotions/birthday3.png</td><td>Happy Birthday! - You are on the Steem blockchain for 3 years!</td></tr></table>\n\n<sub>_You can view [your badges on your Steem Board](https://steemitboard.com/@creativnotions) and compare to others on the [Steem Ranking](https://steemitboard.com/ranking/index.php?name=creativnotions)_</sub>\n\n\n###### [Vote for @Steemitboard as a witness](https://v2.steemconnect.com/sign/account-witness-vote?witness=steemitboard&approve=1) to get one more award and increased upvotes!",
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      "body": "Congratulations @creativnotions! You have completed some achievement on Steemit and have been rewarded with new badge(s) :\n\n[![](https://steemitimages.com/70x80/http://steemitboard.com/notifications/votes.png)](http://steemitboard.com/@creativnotions) Award for the number of upvotes\n\nClick on any badge to view your own Board of Honor on SteemitBoard.\nFor more information about SteemitBoard, click [here](https://steemit.com/@steemitboard)\n\nIf you no longer want to receive notifications, reply to this comment with the word `STOP`\n\n> By upvoting this notification, you can help all Steemit users. Learn how [here](https://steemit.com/steemitboard/@steemitboard/http-i-cubeupload-com-7ciqeo-png)!",
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      "body": "This is a very good article. I hope you continue posting. Your articles are high content. I know how much work it is to write these kind of posts as I also write about crafts like sewing. You have a new follower!",
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      "body": "![knit-fabrics.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmY4sxtWuXZJuAGxDrRNhv3v6HRMsAVMtpi2i2fPrXdjaf/knit-fabrics.jpg)\n\nKnit fabrics – I think everyone absolutely loves wearing them, but sewing with them…? You either love it or hate it.\n\nBefore I researched and learned how to deal with knit fabrics properly, I used to be scared of sewing with this unpredictable fabric.\n\nIt used to bunch and pucker, the seams did not lie straight, the thread got all tangled up inside the bobbin housing, and the stitching broke when I tried the garment on. (In fact, it still happens if I’m too lazy!)\n\nSound familiar? You’re not alone! I’ll be writing a few posts on this topic, as it’s both a widely discussed and avoided one.\n\n<b>WHAT ARE KNIT FABRICS?</b>\nKnit fabrics are stretchy and forgiving (when you wear it). It is characterized by that fact that it’s “knitted” by interlocking loops of threads.\n\n![Knit-Fabrics2.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmdMK7XvkoQwtcE7xVs7QvPqbYxQzBVuErGLVUnNTHzNpp/Knit-Fabrics2.jpg)\n\nThe picture above explains it well. Knit fabrics are made from one continuous piece of thread, and therefore doesn’t come undone as easily as a woven fabric. This also gives it its natural stretchiness.\n\nIt’s soft, and can be used for a variety of projects. You also get various types of knit, which I’ll explain in more detail below.\n\nIn contrast, woven fabrics are stiff and non-stretchy because they are made by weaving the threads length- and crosswise.\n\n![Woven-Fabrics.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmXMLXCg9vwjqg81kuqoevrekuN1F9Bbc8CkEQPjNPa58J/Woven-Fabrics.jpg)\n\nLooking at the picture above, you can see how it is woven together.\n\nIt’s very obvious that it’s not one continuous length of thread. Rather, it’s individual and separate threads which – when cut, fray easily.\n\n<b>WHAT TYPES OF KNIT FABRICS DO YOU GET?</b>\nNow that you know what knit fabrics are, you can easily identify it. It’s soft and stretchy. It can be thin or thick. Think t-shirts, leggings, fleeces, exercise wear etc. Below is a list of the most common types of knit fabrics:\n\n* Cotton jersey – this comes in a variety of weights, and is most commonly used for t-shirts.\n\n* Ribbing – this is easily identifiable due to the ribs on it. It’s mostly used for necklines, and arm/leg cuffs.\n\n* Cotton Lycra Blends – these are similar to cotton jersey, but because of the addition of the spandex, it has a “recoverable” stretch which basically means it doesn’t stretch out completely and returns to its original shape.\n\n* Cotton interlock knits – these are heavier types of knits and because of that, it is a lot easier to sew with and therefore great for newbies.\n\n* Fleece – these are soft and cosy and although they are knits, they don’t really stretch as much and is therefore a lot easier to sew.\n\nObviously, there are quite a lot of other knits out there that I haven’t mentioned above, but I think these are the most common.\n\nCurrently, I feel and stretch a fabric to see if I like it, but often I have no idea what it is called.\n\nSo, when shopping for knits, be mindful of what your pattern requires and what your abilities are as some knits are more difficult to work with than others.\n\nOnce you get over your initial fear, I promise a whole new world of sewing will open up for you!",
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      "title": "Choosing The Right Stabilizers",
      "body": "![stabilizers-choosing-right-one-project.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmc6Za6jhWsFjEqrBdbddjC6XkxafaEc2wns7cnV86GkAw/stabilizers-choosing-right-one-project.jpg)\n\nStabilizers, or backing, is an essential part to your machine embroidery project. It is used to support the fabric during the stitching process in order to keep the fabric from slipping or stretching.\n\nHiding in the back of your fabric, it’s the unsung heroes of machine embroidery and the difference between a professional or poorly made item.\n\nLaugh, but it’s as important as choosing the right bra. You can wear the most beautiful blouse, but without the correct under garment, it just won’t fit the way you want. If embroidery thread is the blouse, backing are the under garments of the embroidery world. And as with bra’s, there are different kinds of stabilizers for different purposes.\n\nThe embroidery stabilizer you select, will directly affect your end result, so it is vital to select the right backing and placing it correctly.\n\nFabric stability, fabric density and stitch density are the most important factors when selecting the correct stabilizer for your item.\n\n[url=http://wilcom.com]Wilcom[/url] made an excellent infographic about stabilizers. Creative Notions have a wide variety of embroidery stabilizers (per meter or roll) available for purchase online.\n\n![Stabilizers.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmcE6qHa98tHEeRiJ39hwqBW7GP9uVKjGiRuQ621EYhymZ/Stabilizers.jpg)",
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      "title": "Tips For Better Cap Embroidery",
      "body": "![cap-embroidery.png](https://steemitimages.com/DQmQw1ZWNqHugC3ZxwmpxwLigJMzcFWxQD1rdmpoJwMeFXP/cap-embroidery.png)\n\nThere will always be a need for embroidered caps; cap embroidery is an ever expanding business.\n\nSo, once you’ve purchased your semi-industrial or industrial embroidery machine, learning to do cap embroidery efficiently and effectively, should be a major priority. You don’t want to lose out on this money spinner!\n\n<b>DON'T BE AFRAID OF CAP EMBROIDERY</b>\nAs daunting as it looks, it actually not so hard.\n\nBefore semi-industrial and industrial embroidery machines, embroidered caps was less pleasant. As the cap could not be hooped down, you had to glue the unfinished cap front down to backing before embroidering. Thereafter, send it to a cap manufacturer to have the cap fronts made into finished caps. You didn’t have to deal with the finished, structured caps.\n\nNowadays, embroidery machines come out with one or more heads. Cap embroidery today is a breeze… if you know how!\n\nThe trick to cap embroidery is to learn how to hoop a cap correctly as well as tight enough in order to be straight. Once you got that under your belt, you’ll have no fear with your next cap embroidery order!\n\n<b>TYPES OF CAPS IS A FACTOR</b>\nThe way you’re going to embroider of caps, depends on the type of cap. Basically, you get two types of caps:\n\n- Structured Caps – six panel caps with a heavy buckram lining in the front\n- Unstructured Caps – no buckram or lining behind the front fabric of the cap\n\n<b>TIPS FOR CAP EMBROIDERY</b>\nHere are some tips that will make it easier for you to cope with embroidered caps and help with taking the guesswork out of it.\n\n* <b>Steam Press First</b>\nIf you’re going to embroider on a structured cap, steam press the item first (a regular iron would work fine). This will soften the front of the cap, presses it flat and helps to sit tighter on the throat plate of the machine.\n\n* <b>Use a 70gram Tear Away Backing</b>\n70 gram tearaway backing is made for cap embroidery. You might need to add up to three layers to hold the cap closer to the throat plate. If your backing it too light, it won’t give you as good a registration.\n\n* <b>Embroider With a 70/10 Needle</b>\nOn cap embroidery, use a 70/10 sharp needle. Unless you experience needle breaks. Then rather switch to a 75/11 needle.\n\nSome even mentioned that a 80/12 needle works for them. However, we’ve never used this large of a needle for cap embroidery. In our experience, one don’t quite get the fine details of the design with a 80/12.\n\n* <b>Make Sure Your Design is 53mm Or Less in Height</b>\nThis is a small trick, which allows your design to embroidered on most caps, yet makes quite the difference. If embroidery needs to be done on a low profile or an unstructured cap, then you may need to keep your design to a maximum of 51mm in height.\n\n* <b>Is The Cap Hooped Tight?</b>\nCheck whether the cap is framed tight. Use the clips on the side of the caps to hoop it down. Also, it helps to place the clips at the bottom of the posts closer to the bottom of the cap.  This will hold the cap in position, yet not distort the design at the top of the cap.\n\n* <b>Start Embroidering From the Bottom Up and Centre Out</b>\nSet your design to start embroidering from the bottom up and the centre out. If you’re not a digitizer yourself, and have a digitizer to do your designs for you, remember to inform him/her that the design is for cap embroidery and the direction you’d like the design to be set as.\n\n* <b>Make Sure You Have Enough Underlay</b>\nHaving enough underlay will anchor your embroidered cap backing to the front and will keep good registration.\n\n* <b>Only Two Colours?</b>\nIf the letters are in two colours, we suggest that you embroider the inside of the letter first. Thereafter the outside, before going to the next letter.\n\n* <b>Have a Large Fill Area In The Centre?</b>\nThis tip comes in handy every once in a while. Large fill areas sometimes causes the design to push and pleat the fabric. By running a zig-zag stitch up the centre of the cap before actually starting the design, it will help anchor the design and refrain from pushing and pleating the fabric in the centre.\n\n* <b>Plan Where To Start Your Design</b>\nStart your design between 12-19mm up from the metal strap that goes across the front and is located on the bill of the cap.  If you have a short design, move it up to be in the centre of the cap. Otherwise, if the design is tall, start it at the 25mm point up from the metal strap.\n\nGot some more tips on cap embroidery? Share them here!",
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