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      "author": "steemitboard",
      "permlink": "steemitboard-notify-potatrick-20190804t052624000z",
      "title": "",
      "body": "Congratulations @potatrick! You received a personal award!\n\n<table><tr><td>https://steemitimages.com/70x70/http://steemitboard.com/@potatrick/birthday2.png</td><td>Happy Birthday! - You are on the Steem blockchain for 2 years!</td></tr></table>\n\n<sub>_You can view [your badges on your Steem Board](https://steemitboard.com/@potatrick) and compare to others on the [Steem Ranking](https://steemitboard.com/ranking/index.php?name=potatrick)_</sub>\n\n\n###### [Vote for @Steemitboard as a witness](https://v2.steemconnect.com/sign/account-witness-vote?witness=steemitboard&approve=1) to get one more award and increased upvotes!",
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      "body": "[Source](https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/kelly-slater-will-surf-j-bay/28498)\n[Plagiarism](http://www.plagiarism.org/plagiarism-101/what-is-plagiarism/) is the copying & pasting of others work without giving credit to the original author or artist. Plagiarized posts are considered spam. \r\n\r\nSpam is discouraged by the community, and may result in action from the [cheetah bot](https://steemit.com/faq.html#What_is__cheetah).\r\n\r\n[More information and tips on sharing content.](https://steemcleaners.org/copy-paste-plagiarism/)\r\n\r\nIf you believe this comment is in error, please contact us in [#disputes on Discord](https://discord.gg/YR2Wy5A)",
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      "body": "[Source](https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/nose-drip-surfing/22126)\n[Plagiarism](http://www.plagiarism.org/plagiarism-101/what-is-plagiarism/) is the copying & pasting of others work without giving credit to the original author or artist. Plagiarized posts are considered spam. \r\n\r\nSpam is discouraged by the community, and may result in action from the [cheetah bot](https://steemit.com/faq.html#What_is__cheetah).\r\n\r\n[More information and tips on sharing content.](https://steemcleaners.org/copy-paste-plagiarism/)\r\n\r\nIf you believe this comment is in error, please contact us in [#disputes on Discord](https://discord.gg/YR2Wy5A)",
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      "body": "# Sell your votes https://steemit.com/news/@bible.com/6h36cq",
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      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttp://www.surfline.com/surf-science/surfology-101-with-chris-borg---forecaster-blog_94834/",
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      "title": "SURF SCIENCE: FORECASTER CHRIS BORG ON RED TIDE",
      "body": "John D. of Landlocked, KS writes: Why do I keep hearing about the red tide invading our shores? Should I be concerned?\n\nJD, the phenomena you’re referring to does not involve politics or people. It doesn’t really have anything to do with the tide either and it actually appears in a range of colors. That’s why the more appropriate term for this natural occurrence is algae bloom.\n\nThe algal events come in two types, with the most common kind simply called algae blooms, and the less frequent but far more noticeable variety named harmful algae blooms. Those latter ones do tend to have a reddish hue. Harmful or not, each type of bloom is created by alga, infinitesimally little life forms collectively known as phytoplankton. At home in both fresh and salty water, phytoplankton are microscopic organisms usually consisting of a single cell. In comparison, you consist of around 100 trillion cells. But even with our 100,000,000,000,000 to 1 cell superiority, every phytoplankton can do something we can’t do: photosynthesize. Traces of chlorophyll inside the tiny plants enable them to convert light into chemical energy; to transform solar rays into the sugars they need to survive. Phytoplankton photosynthesis is what we need to survive too, since a byproduct of that process provides us with over half the oxygen we breathe and much of the protein we consume.\n\n\nPhytoplankton: most are good, but there are some bad apples in the bunch. Credit: www.earthobservatory.nasa.gov\n\nIn the ocean, phytoplankton form the very bottom link of the food chain. From the smallest to the largest, and either directly or indirectly, all aquatic animals feed on phytoplankton. On the small/direct feeding end of the spectrum are zooplankton. That group includes minute creatures such as copepods and krill, as well as the larval stage of things like crustaceans, mollusks and fish. The ocean’s biggest fish, the whale shark, and its most massive marine mammals, whales, also directly feed on phytoplankton while they gobble up zooplankton too. Other sea creatures and marine animals are indirect consumers of phytoplankton. They follow the food chain chain of command by first eating the smaller/direct feeders and then getting eaten by larger/indirect feeders. This finely tuned system of consumption runs smoothly as long as all of its components are in balance. When that balance is lost the intricate system can collapse.\n\nLike all plants, algae require sunlight, water and certain nutrients such as nitrates and phosphates to live. Floating around in the ocean, phytoplankton always have plenty of water, but water temperatures may or may not be conducive to supporting the algae. The availability of light varies depending on the weather and turbidity/salinity of the sea. The amount of nutrients can be even more sporadic. Since one or more of those essentials is generally in short supply the algae population is kept in check. However, when nutrients are abundant, the sun is shining bright and water conditions are just right, algae numbers can grow exponentially. Usually such a phytoplankton population explosion creates an algae bloom that fattens up the entire food chain. But when the phytoplankton involved are the toxic kind, the resultant harmful algae bloom can shatter that chain and threaten the health of all other life in the water. That includes you!",
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      "title": "STING RAYS ARE HERE TO STAY",
      "body": "Increased reports of painful stings along Southern California‘s beaches over fall and winter reminds us that stingrays don’t follow calendars, they show up when they please, not just in summer. That doesn’t mean you have to be afraid of those creatures, but you do need to be aware of them and you should know how to avoid an unwanted encounter. In case such a confrontation does occur and escalates to conflict, it is also advantageous to know the best way to treat the resulting wounds.\n\nThe common stingray is an East Coast ray. Image: Wiki commons/Florin Dumitrescu \nThe common stingray is an East Coast ray. Image: Wiki commons/Florin Dumitrescu\n\nPut yourself in the slick skin of the common or round stingray (the two types of stingrays which are most prevalent, respectively, at US East and West Coast beaches): you live in shallow coastal waters, preferably with nice sandy seabeds, where you feed on bottom-dwelling crustaceans, mollusks and small fish.\n\n\nThe round stingray is a West Coast local. Image: Wiki commons/Robin Miller\nThe round stingray is a West Coast local. Image: Wiki commons/Robin Miller\n\nBased on your size, you should be in the middle class of the local food chain, but the stiletto you open-carry near the base of your tail earns you added respect and positions you several links closer to the top. Even so, you still have some neighbors that look at you as lunch. Since those hard core predators are built like torpedoes and you’re shaped more like a pizza, there’s no way you can ever out swim them. While your flattened profile is not designed for speed, it is ideal for hiding.\n\nStingrays blend in well with the sand. Image: Wiki commons/lennyk410\nStingrays blend in well with the sand. Image: Wiki commons/lennyk410\n\nCombining your shovel shape and camouflage color allows you to easily blend in with the seafloor, or plow right into the sand so that you are totally covered. Submerged in the sand, you are completely concealed from sight and safe from the predators swimming above you. \n\nBut then the kooks from the beach come charging in. Those bipedal air-breathers stomp around in the water like they own the place. Through vibrations in the sand you can feel them getting closer and you consider bailing, but decide to stay put instead. Wrong choice. A crushing weight slams down on your back, pinning you to the seabed! With your cover blown and flight no longer an option, you are forced to fight. Reflexively, your tail whips up and instantly plunges its stinger into the attacker. It works! The predator backs off and you make a mad dash to another hiding place, a bit bruised and shaken but still in one piece. \n\nWhen mostly covered in sand, stingrays get really hard to spot. Image: Wiki commons/James St. John\nWhen mostly covered in sand, stingrays get really hard to spot. Image: Wiki commons/James St. John\n\nNow put yourself in the sorry skin of the poor schmo that just got shived. All thoughts of surfing or a fun day at the beach instantly evaporate as you focus solely on the steadily increasing agony emanating from your foot. You hobble out of the water expecting to see a massive laceration. Instead there’s just a small puncture wound that has no right to hurt so much. The way-out-of-proportion pain is produced by the poisonous, protein-based venom covering the stingray’s barbed stinger. The venom inflicts maximum suffering by causing affected muscle tissue to contract as far as it possibly can, and then keep on contracting. Think of the worst charlie horse you’ve ever felt, amplified 10-fold. Although it doesn’t feel like it at the time, stingray venom is rarely fatal to humans unless there is an allergic reaction or the stinger penetrates a vital organ, as occurred with Steve Irwin, the Crocodile Hunter. \n\n\nHeat breaks down the proteins in stingray venom so the best way to reduce the pain is to soak the wound in hot water. The hotter the water the more effective it is at neutralizing the toxins, but don’t scald yourself. The idea here is to alleviate the suffering, not just change the source of the pain. In addition, you must make sure that any part of the stinger that broke off in the wound is carefully removed and the injury is thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. Having a doctor take a look is highly recommended. \n\n\nThe best way to try to avoid that trip to the doctor’s office is to do the old fashion “stingray shuffle.” Instead of stomping around when you’re in stingray inhabited waters, slide or shuffle your feet along the bottom. That gives the little devils move time to get out of the way. If you do happen to bump into a stingray that’s still better than stepping on them, and they are more likely to just swim away without stabbing you.",
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      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/great-white-shark-season-socal-heres-need-know/22661",
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      "title": "SHARK MIGRATION IN SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA",
      "body": "Not since Jaws has shark hysteria surged like last year in Southern California.\n\nBut instead of a lone-wolf, animatronic behemoth inciting fear from the silver screen, last year saw packs of juvenile great whites stalking the shallow waters from Santa Cruz to San Diego. The shark activity was so heavy that leading shark researcher, Dr. Chris Lowe of Cal State Long Beach’s Shark Lab, called it, “the sharkiest summer that we’ve seen.”\n\nAnd now, as the waters start to warm and the juvenile great whites return from their annual migration down to Baja, the sightings have begun. Although questions remain – Where will the shark hotspots be this season? Will the numbers be comparable to last year? Are we safe?\n\n\nSo, in anticipation of sharing the lineup with our grey-suited friends, we felt it was time for a refresher on things to keep in mind during this year’s shark season in Southern California.\n\n \n\nFROM BAJA TO SOCAL\nWhite sharks are unique in nature for many reasons – they’ve been around for 16 million years, females can grow to 20 feet long, they’re considered the quintessential ocean predator – but perhaps most remarkable, is that their species can be found in every ocean worldwide. Pacific Ocean great whites, however, stick to a fairly well-documented migratory pattern.\n\n\n\nMost of the sharks off the Southern California coast are of a particular age and size – pups and juveniles, ranging from 6-to-10-feet in length. That demographic enjoys California’s coastal waters in the warmer months because of an abundance of easy-to-catch food (stingrays, fish) and water temperature. For the first few years, they migrate between Baja and Southern California before they’re big enough to hunt marine mammals (seals) and venture into colder waters (north of Point Conception, Farallon Islands, etc.).\n\n“When we get our first winter storms, that’s when we start to see the migration south,” Dr. Lowe told Surfline. “Once they’re over eight feet, the water temperature is a little less impactful. It doesn’t drive them as much as food at that point. By the time they’re three years old, they’ve made multiple migrations between Southern California and Mexico. At about 10 feet, they start trying to catch marine mammals – off Channel Islands and Guadalupe – although they’re still pretty bad at it.”\n\n \n\nSO, WHY SOCAL?\nAs Dr. Lowe mentioned above, the juvenile white shark population is partial to very specific conditions. Generally speaking, they like warmer water than their elder counterparts, and a steady supply of easy-to-catch food. And Southern California in the summertime fits the bill perfectly.\n\n“The areas are not that unusual,” Dr. Lowe said about the popular great white haunts observed in 2017. “We’ve identified hotspots through historic fishing records and all the tags we’ve placed fall into those areas. Back in 2008 to 2011, Will Rogers Beach off the Palisades was the hotspot. In 2011 to 2014, it was Manhattan Beach.”\n\nAnd last year, the standalone hotspot was Capo Beach, just south of the longboarder lineup at Doheny State Beach. Although throughout the season, sharks were spotted all over; one day in May, in particular, there were 27 sharks spotted up and down the coast – 15 at Capo Beach, 10 just north of Seal Beach, one on the southside of Huntington Beach Pier, and one at Church Beach near San Onofre.\n\nIt’s too early in the season to say where the hotspots will be this year, however, there’s already been sightings from San Onofre to Ventura, and of course, their favorite haunt from last year, Capo Beach.\n\n\n \n\nTOO CLOSE FOR COMFORT\nEveryone knows there’s sharks in the ocean. There’s also giant squids, electric eels, and poisonous sea snakes – but nobody’s nearly as concerned with them, as they are with sharks.\n\nBut why?\n\nWell, there’s two obvious reasons: 1) great white sharks are ruthless predators, hunting anything they can get their serrated teeth on, and 2) the juveniles, in particular, have been known to mingle in popular swimming areas. The near-shore waters are like a buffet for the young sharks, versus the vast open ocean. And because they’re hanging out so close to shore, they wind up brushing shoulders (and fins) with surfers and swimmers.\n\nIn response to last year’s unprecedented amount of sightings in Southern California, shark attack researcher Ralph Collier told Surfline: “The sharks are juvenile and neonate white sharks. They are close inshore because of all the halibut, rays, and baitfish that have assembled in those areas. Not unusual for this to occur. Just predators feeding on their natural prey. Unfortunately, the areas are the same ones we use for our ocean water activity.”\n\n\n \n\nWHY SO MANY?\nAnother main concern with the recent influx of great whites in Southern California is the sheer volume. Some salty old surfers might wax nostalgically about less sightings back in my day, and they might not be completely wrong; although, the sharks have always been there, long before surfers have.\n\nThe uptick in population can most likely be attributed to one major factor: conservation. Before 1994, fishermen could catch a great white shark off California, kill it, and nobody would bat an eye. But now, the same catch could result in a $10,000 fine. And 24 years later, great white shark populations are returning to normal, if not inflated, numbers.\n\n“It’s taken this long to finally start seeing the results of protection, [but] they’ve finally reached a tipping point,” Dr. Michael Domeier, president of the Marine Conservation Science Institute (MCSI), told Surfline. “This is not a fluke. It’s our new reality. And we just have to get used to it.”\n\n\n \n\nFRIEND OR FOE?\nAlthough the juveniles, which hang out in popular surfing and swimming zones, are less threatening than full-grown, garbage-disposal adult great whites, they can still be dangerous. Case and point: Leeanne Ericson, who was attacked by a 9-to-11-foot great white shark while swimming at Church Beach near San Onofre in April of last year.\n\nShark attack survivor, Leeanne Ericson, and her ripped wetsuit from the day she cheated death. Photo: Billy Watts\nShark attack survivor, Leeanne Ericson, and her ripped wetsuit from the day she cheated death. Photo: Billy Watts\n\nAttacks on surfers and swimmers from great whites are rare, to say the least, but Ericson’s near-death experience was a terrifying reminder that it can happen to anyone. And with an increase in the population, the likelihood of an attack only escalates, too.\n\n“The vast majority of those sharks are too small to bother anybody,” Dr. Domeier told Surfline. “But as the juveniles reach sub-adulthood — that in-between phase — yeah, they’ll be able to do some damage.”\n\nThe chances of a shark attack have become something folkloric, passed down for generations and slightly altered along the way – from, “you have a better chance of being struck by lightning,” to Laird Hamilton’s claim, “that soda machines kill more people every year than sharks.” The truth probably lies somewhere in between. But according to the International Shark Attack File, you’re more likely to be injured by a toilet than a shark. So, there’s that to ponder.\n\n“Statistically, the chances are so slim,” Dr. Domeier said. “[But] there are going to be more incidents in California. That’s the reality. People have to get used to that.”",
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      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/science-behind-kellys-surf-ranch/13751",
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      "title": "MORE ON THE SCIENCE BEHIND KELLY’S SURF RANCH",
      "body": "Putting any deeper philosophical debate aside, there is nary a surfer alive that doesn’t dream of surfing Kelly’s man-made wave at the Surf Ranch. With plans progressing for an eventual East Coast Ranch in South Florida, we all ponder if our dreams will be realized (without the aid of a Golden Ticket, of course) in shorter time than it took for Kelly to realize his. Last week, Science magazine gave us the the most detailed look under-the-hood to date of the world’s most idolized mechanical wave.\n\n\nGiving back to the surf world is something Slater’s never shied away from. His most selfish gift? The Kelly Slater Surf Ranch. Photo courtesy: Kelly Slater Wave Co.\n\nPutting future accessibility and affordability concerns of the commoner aside for now, the article offers new information to give the lay-surfer some perspective beyond the porn-esque Vimeo clips of the surfing world’s aristocracy delighting in the King’s offering.\n\n\nWe are introduced to Adam Finchman, the PhD aerospace engineer specializing in geophysical fluid dynamics from the University of Southern California who leads the engineering behind the Surf Ranch. Hard to believe that Finchman, a later-in-life surfer hailing from Jamaica, had no idea who Slater was before being approached over a decade ago for the project. Little did he know he would become Kelly’s current-day Al Merrick of sorts, the engineering mind behind the scene that allows the visions in Kelly’s mind to come to fruition.\n\nFinchman figured out how to create the wave that propels Kelly’s dream well beyond reality, then Kelly directed the shape of the underlying ‘reef’ to create the varying rippable and barrelling sections — with intensive supercomputer simulations connecting the dots between fantasy and real-life. \n\n\nJohn John Florence putting the pool through its paces at the Future Classic. Photo: Rowland/WSL\n\nWe learn the pool itself is 700m long by 150m wide, which is around 140m or one-fifth longer than the Huntington Beach Pier. And the pool is about five times wider than the HB Pier rises above the water. This theoretically offers a maximum ride distance of 715m from corner to corner. Knowing this is not practical, we assume a maximum ride length of around 400-600m factoring in buffers at take off and finishing ends. That’s a ride length of around four to five city blocks, a distance that most of us are highly unlikely to catch at our local break, and around twice as long as the Supertubes section at J-Bay.\n\nA large hydrofoil is pulled the length of the pool along tracks by a contraption the size of train cars, outfitted on 150 truck tires. The foil creates the wave in this instance, rather than catching the wave a la Kai Lenny. Reported speeds of the wave generator are around 19mph which is the deep water wave speed of a 10-11sec period swell.\n\nThe track produces a wave in one direction, say a right, then rests until the pool settles before producing a left during the return track back to the start. It is this time in between that appears to be the new engineering hurdle. The settling time is currently a reported three minutes, which works out to a maximum of 15 to 20 waves per hour, not exactly an endless wave-generating machine.\n\n\nPerhaps some of the most insightful, and equally depressing info, in the article isn’t science-based at all, but financial. Majority owner WSL Holdings doesn’t aim to sell waves on a ‘per ride’ basis, i.e., offering waves to the masses. Rather, they envision the wave pools becoming part of larger entertainment or resort complexes. Kelly himself compares the commercial possibilities to luxury, high-end golf communities, the likes of which are out of reach for all but a select few of the 1%’ers.\n\nSo while the Surf Ranch, and its future siblings, may alter the way we view contests and potentially fast-track the progress of unimaginable maneuvers in the sport, it could be another decade before us common-folk have a chance to experience the joy we’ve seen on the faces of the world’s best surfers after their first taste of Kelly’s man-made perfection.\n\nYou can view the entire article, “A surfer and a scientist teamed up to create the perfect wave,” by Jon Cohen, online at Sciencemag.org.",
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      "permlink": "cheetah-re-potatrickunderstanding-the-continental-shelf-and-bathymetry-of-the-east-coast",
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      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/understanding-continental-shelf-bathymetry-east-coast/3701",
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      "permlink": "understanding-the-continental-shelf-and-bathymetry-of-the-east-coast",
      "title": "UNDERSTANDING THE CONTINENTAL SHELF AND BATHYMETRY OF THE EAST COAST",
      "body": "Surfline user Jeff writes: “Atlantic southern hemi swells in the north east have always intrigued me. I have surfed some long period southern ocean stuff while growing up at the beach breaks in NJ. These swells were usually closed out or if we were lucky some wind swell helped cross it up a bit. More recently I have learned from living on the west coast that breaks with deep underwater canyons offshore, like Blacks or Palos Verdes, can focus this energy to maximize the swell’s potential. Are there any such breaks on the east coast that have similar characteristics for focusing long period energy?\n\nSeems to me that the long drawn out continental shelf on the east coast just prevents anything like what we see at Blacks on nice SW from ever happening.”\n\nHi Jeff,\n\nAlthough in general we do have a pretty substantial continental shelf, we still have to contend with areas of underwater bathymetry that affect our swells. Also, there are some regions where the continental shelf is really narrow – near the south Outer Banks and there is also almost zero shelf near Palm Beach in FL.\n\nSo we do see areas up and down the East Coast where refraction can and does occur with our swells – robbing one beach of energy while another beach gets the goods. Even in NJ surfers have to be aware of the offshore Hudson submarine canyon – yes this absolutely will affect the surf in NJ and along western LI. Some beaches in NY/NJ will be better than others as a direct result of this canyon affecting the swell (dependent upon sell direction and period).\n\nSo while it seems that we do not see much affect to our swells from underwater bathymetry, it does occur, although not quite like the case you get with a spot like Black’s. Hope this helps.\n\nBest regards,\n\nMike Watson\n\nSurfline Forecaster",
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      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttp://www.surfline.com/surf-news/uninhabited-pacific-island-has-higher-density-of-plastic-debris-than-any-other-place-on-planet-ocean-oddities-_147447/",
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      "permlink": "3xvxlu-ocean-oddities-pacific-s-plastic-island",
      "title": "OCEAN ODDITIES: PACIFIC’S PLASTIC ISLAND",
      "body": "Ever since people invented trash, the sea has served as our favorite dump.Getting rid of garbage on land is hard work, and it involves burning and/or burial. Burning rubbish creates sick smelling smoke and leaves behind ash that still needs to be buried. Burying means digging up lots of dirt, and no matter how much dirt is dug, all landfills inevitably fill up.\n\n\nBut when a dump has an average depth of 2.3 miles and covers over 2/3 of Earth’s surface, running out of room is never an issue. Besides the unlimited storage space, deposing debris at sea is as easy as dropping it in the water. Waste that sinks is instantly gone, while the refuse that floats is soon swept away by winds and currents. So the ocean essentially takes out the trash for us.\n\nFor millennia, all the debris we tossed into the sea was made out of natural materials derived from plants, animals, or ores, and they were all subject to natural decay. Once in the water, paper-like products quickly disintegrate, while wood rots and metal rusts. Due to the solvent power of seawater, the ocean was able to dissolve our refuse almost as fast we dumped it in. So through most of human history, the net result of our waste stream into the sea was just a gradual accumulation of ocean trash over time.\n\n\nBecause Henderson Island is so remote, the uninhabited atoll has had very little direct human contact. Indirect human contact is a whole different story. Image: wikipedia\n\nThe near equilibrium in sea debris ended with the advent of the plastic age. Invented in the early 1900s, plastic was one of the first synthetic substances man ever made and it was a truly remarkable new material. Plastic was strong yet light enough to float on water, cheap to make, but very durable and long lasting. Nearly ideal for manufacturing purposes, plastic was extremely malleable and could be molded into any shape. So naturally, “fantastic plastic” caught on quick and the polymers became phenomenally popular. By the mid-20th century, millions of pounds of plastic, in hundreds of different molecular formulations, were being used in thousands of products around the world.\n\nPlastic replaced paper, wood, glass and metal in countless consumer items and packaging. Consequently, plastic also replaced much of that material in our landfills, and became a major component of the trash, aka litter, that never reaches the landfills. Much of that misplaced waste winds up in rivers, which in turn transport the trash down to the sea. That non-stop slurry of plastic pollution has been steadily flowing into our oceans for the last 60+ years.\n\n\nWith an average of 557 pieces of trash per square yard, Henderson Island holds the world record for plastic debris density. Image: PNAS\n\nOnce launched into the sea, the plastic debris is caught up in the ocean’s interconnected complex of currents. Those continuously shifting streams embedded in the sea range in size from small eddies driven by localized winds, to gigantic gyres powered by Earth’s own rotation. Like massive whirlpools pinwheeling in slow motion, the vast vortices circulate water around the periphery of entire oceans. Anything entrained in that circulation, (like Fukushima’s radioactive runoff), can be carried from one side to the sea to the other. Buoyant debris bobs along with the flow until it disintegrates, sinks or gets stuck on something stationary. Something like an island, for instance. \n\nHenderson Island is a 14.4 square mile speck of land, located over 3,100 miles away from the closest continent and surrounded by millions of square miles of open ocean. The raised coral atoll’s nearest neighbors are the other three dots of dry land that collectively comprise the Pitcairn Islands, Britain’s last Overseas Territory in the Pacific. Just one of those four little islands, Pitcairn, is inhabited, and only with about 50 permanent residences, which makes the Pitcairn Islands the world’s least populous national jurisdiction.\n\n\nThe South Pacific Gyre gathers up sea debris then hauls the trash to Henderson Island. Image: PNAS\n\nAlthough Henderson doesn’t have any people, the diminutive island does have amazing biodiversity, with much of its flora and fauna found nowhere else on the planet. That’s why the atoll has been designated a World Heritage Site. Since the isolated island is so remote and untouched by human hand, it’s easy to picture the place as a pristine Pacific paradise. But while Henderson Island may lay beyond the reach of our grasp, it is well within the range of our garbage.\n\nWaste-wise, Henderson Island has the misfortune of being situated in the midst of the South Pacific Gyre. That colossal, counter-clockwise circulation cell continuously collects the runoff refuse from dozens of different countries on three continents, with Chile, China and Japan contributing the greatest share of trash. The end result for Henderson’s beaches is an estimated 3,750 pieces of primarily plastic debris washing ashore each and every day, for an accumulative total of 37.7 million items either laying on or buried in the sand.  All that trash concentrated in such a small space gives Henderson Island the highest density of plastic waste anywhere in the world.\n\n\nWhile some of the trash on Henderson Island comes in handy, most of the debris is hazardous to the inhabitant’s health. Image: PNAS\n\nWhile some continue to debate the charge of climate change, the proliferation of plastic pollution in the ocean seems to be a subject where we can reach a common consensus. No one denies that every piece of plastic in the sea was produced by people. At the very least that plastic litter is an eyesore, and at worst it is a lethal hazard to marine life. Reduction in plastic production is not the issue here, although that would be nice, this is simply about reducing the amount of plastic products which inadvertently enter the ocean. This is a cause we can all support and a goal everyone can help to achieve.\n\n\nFirst, we ensure that we’re not part of the problem by making certain that all of our own waste winds up where it’s supposed to. Reuse and recycle all that you can and properly dispose of what pieces you can not. Next, we step up and contribute to the solution by taking responsibility for some rubbish that’s not even ours and putting that litter in its proper place too. When leaving the water, pick up and properly dispose of any plastic you see when crossing the beach. While the total amount of plastic debris in the sea may be overwhelmingly massive, every piece that we pick up is an immediate improvement and movement in the right direction. No matter how infinitesimal the actual effect of our individual efforts may be, the ocean still approves of such actions and we will be rewarded with more waves.",
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      "author": "cheetah",
      "permlink": "cheetah-re-potatrickunderstanding-high-and-low-pressure-winds",
      "title": "",
      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/understanding-high-low-pressure-wind-movement/16358",
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      "author": "potatrick",
      "permlink": "understanding-high-and-low-pressure-winds",
      "title": "UNDERSTANDING HIGH AND LOW PRESSURE WINDS",
      "body": "nquisitive Surfline user “Barry” writes:\n\n“Ok so I’ve been looking at the details and I’ve already got stumped. As I understand it, wind starts from air moving from high pressure areas to low pressure areas and air pressure is measured in millibars. Here’s where I’m mixed up: I’ve been looking at charts of low pressure areas ( smaller circles with lower millibar levels) moving under Africa towards Australia. They’re sorta like peaks on a topographical map only just the opposite and the smaller circles represent the “low” instead of the peak. If the wind blows towards the low from the high, how does the wave energy move towards Indo or Western Australia. It seems like I’ve got the concept in reverse. Dang, there goes my career as a forecaster!\n\nThanks for some assistance.”\n\n\nSurfline’s Kevin Wallis responds:\n\nGreat question! Ok, with this we need to take a couple things into consideration. You’re correct when you mention that wind flows from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure, as the earth constantly tries to reach a state of equilibrium. The tendency for air to move from an area of high pressure to an area of low pressure is called the pressure gradient force (PGF). Now if the earth didn’t rotate about its axis the wind would flow directly from high to low.\n\nBut in reality the earth rotates, causing the wind to deflect to the right (in relation to a straight line) in the Northern Hemisphere and deflect to the left in the Southern Hemisphere. This is known as the coriolis force. Check out this resource for a good coriolis force demonstration.\n\nSo, when these two forces act against each other (and other factors such as friction come into play) the wind will not flow directly from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure. For simplicity’s sake, we’ll just say that the wind will closely follow the path of the isboars, (equivalent to contour lines on a topographic map) such as below. The black arrows represent the basic flow of the wind:\n\nREAD: What Causes Storms?\n\nWith areas of low pressure, cyclonic flow will closely parallel the isobar lines with a slight bend toward the center of the low. The opposite is true with areas of high pressure, or areas of anticyclonic flow: the wind will closely parallel the isobar lines, with a slight bend out from the center of high pressure.\n\nFurthermore, in the Southern Hemisphere, winds will rotate clockwise around an area of low pressure and counter clockwise around an area of high pressure. The opposite is true in the Northern Hemisphere: winds rotate counter clockwise around an area of low pressure and counter clockwise around an area of high pressure.\n\n\n\nNow what I’m sure you’ll also notice on the above map is that it appears the wind is blowing directly from west to east and the resulting swell will pass well to the south of the Indonesian Islands, particularly from the storm south of Africa. But of course this is a flat map and the earth is round! So, have a look at the dark lines that converge at Bali and then extend out toward the West Indian Ocean. These are the great circle paths that correct for a flat map vs. round earth. When you see the isobar lines running parallel to the great circle lines, wind and eventually swell, are being aimed at your location.\n\nNow have a look at the concentric rings (for lack of a better term) that intersect the great circle lines. Each one of these rings represent a distance of roughly 600 miles, which is about how far a swell with 17 second interval can travel in one day. So, strictly looking at this map and ignoring some other factors, there are new swells heading toward Bali/Indo, with arrival time 5 days from now, 7 days from now and 9 days from now.\n\nHope that explains things a bit more and makes sense. Feel free to contact us again with any further questions.\n\nKevin Wallis\nSurfline Forecaster",
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      "author": "cheetah",
      "permlink": "cheetah-re-potatricklovely-lola-our-top-6-purple-blobs-so-far",
      "title": "",
      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/lovely-lola-top-6-purple-blobs-far/3383",
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      "parent_permlink": "surfing",
      "author": "potatrick",
      "permlink": "lovely-lola-our-top-6-purple-blobs-so-far",
      "title": "LOVELY LOLA: OUR TOP 6 PURPLE BLOBS (SO FAR)",
      "body": "Few things in the world of surf forecasting elicit the visceral reaction that a ‘purple blob’ does when LOLA indicates it is aimed at your local break. The average surfer might not know exactly how big it’s gonna be or the precise arrival time just from looking at the chart but they usually realize one thing… “It’s gonna be pumping soon!”\n\nA recent addition to the Surfline suite of forecast tools is that our significant wave height charts (purple blob charts) now go all the way back to 1979. If our team is curious about what the storm looked like that created the huge swell for the North Shore in January 1998 or the Code Red Tahiti swell in 2011, we can now find it. \n\nWith this in mind, our Forecast Team picked a few of our favorite purple blobs from the last few decades.\n\n\nNorth Pacific: \n\nThe North Pacific has countless purple blob candidates, so it’s not an easy task to select just one. However, a favorite for us was the NW swell that slammed Hawaii on Feb 8th, 2013.\n\n\nSouth Pacific:\n\nThis was the swell that spawned Mike Stewart’s incredible journey, with Sean Collins’ forecast expertise, from Tahiti to Hawaii to California and eventually Alaska in mid- to late-July 1996.\n\n\nGulf of Mexico:\n\nThis purple blob belongs to Hurricane Rita, of the record breaking 2005 Atlantic tropical season. It was the Gulf of Mexico’s most intense cyclone to date, rapidly strengthening on a track through the Florida Straits into the Gulf. Rita blossomed from tropical storm status to major Category-5 hurricane in around a day and a half, peaking in intensity through the wee hours of the morning on September 22nd.\n\n\nAtlantic:\n\nThe appropriately named winter storm ‘Hercules’ took LOLA to a whole new level: from purple to platinum. This mammoth storm was the most impressive of the North Atlantic winter 2013-2014 season, one that will go down in European and North African surfer’s memory banks as an all time classic.\n\n\nSouth Atlantic:\n\nThis one just looks pretty to us. With all due respect to some of the platinum blobs on this list, there is just something appealing about all that pink and purple that occurred just off the tip of Africa in late-August 2005.\n\n\nIndian:\nhttps://d14fqx6aetz9ka.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/06135421/indianblob-540x300.jpg\nPound for pound, the most cyclonically active ocean in the world, so you better believe the Indian Ocean brought its ‘A’ game to qualify as a Surfline Forecast Team favorite purple blob.",
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      "parent_author": "potatrick",
      "parent_permlink": "wave-energy-decay-and-direction",
      "author": "cheetah",
      "permlink": "cheetah-re-potatrickwave-energy-decay-and-direction",
      "title": "",
      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/wave-energy-decay-direction/2445",
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  "timestamp": "2018-06-25T14:19:27",
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      "parent_permlink": "surfing",
      "author": "potatrick",
      "permlink": "wave-energy-decay-and-direction",
      "title": "WAVE ENERGY, DECAY AND DIRECTION",
      "body": "Waves and swell are created by wind.\nAround the earth, we have areas of high air pressure and areas of low air pressure in the atmosphere. Think of the air as liquid, as water. The areas of high pressure are constantly trying to fill the areas of low pressure. If you have an area of high water right next to an area of low water with no barrier between, the high water will flow to fill the area of low water. The transition of airflow from high pressure to low pressure is wind.\n\nWhen the wind blows over the ocean, it creates small ripples on the surface. As these ripples grow, the wind gets better friction on the ocean surface. After a period of time, these ripples grow into small waves or chop on the water. As the wind increases and continues to blow, the chop transforms into small waves, then into larger waves and then, if all goes well, into huge waves.\n\nEnergy\nSimply put, waves are created when wind transfers its energy from the air to the water. Wave generation requires three variables: wind velocity, wind duration and wind fetch. The harder the wind blows, the longer the time it blows and the greater the distance it blows, the bigger the waves. Limitation of any one of these variables will severely restrict the development of wave heights and the transfer of energy into the water.\n\nAs waves grow larger, the distance between waves will become greater, signifying more and more energy being transferred deeper into the ocean. As more energy is transferred deeper into the water, the waves have better ability to sustain that energy as they travel great distances across the oceans. The most common way to measure wavelengths is by measuring swell period, which is the time between successive wave crests as they pass a stationary point on the ocean surface, such as a buoy.\n\nWave Decay\nWaves decay and get smaller the farther they travel. In the middle of a storm there is a confused mix of sea state. Various waves of different heights, directions and swell periods turn the ocean surface into a chaotic mess. We call this the wave spectrum. All of these waves are the result of different cycles of the storm, with the short-period waves generated by current winds in the local area and the longer period waves generated by winds earlier in the storm’s life that have had a longer time to develop.\n\nAs the waves move out of the storm area, they decrease greatly in size within the first thousand miles (more than 60 percent) and slowly thereafter. This is caused by three factors: short-period waves and chop dissipating rapidly once outside of the wind-generation area; directional spreading of waves as they move away from the storm at different angles and the separation of waves as they travel forward at different speeds after leaving the storm area. This initial wave-decay process allows the underlying long-period waves to move out from beneath the messy short-period sea state in the middle of the storm. Once these longer period waves break free from the storm’s confusion, they are easily identified as a more organized wave train, which we call swell.\n\nDirection\nWhere the wind or swell is coming from. In the marine community, directions are always identified as the direction the swell or the wind is “coming from,” not the direction it’s headed. Degrees used are true degrees with north at 0 or 360 degrees (and then moving clockwise), east at 90 degrees, south at 180 degrees and west at 270 degrees. Northeast may be anywhere between 0 and 90 degrees, southeast between 90 and 180 degrees, southwest between 180 and 270 degrees and northwest between 270 and 360 degrees.",
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      "author": "a-a-a",
      "permlink": "re-potatrick-what-causes-storms-20180625t033648163z",
      "title": "",
      "body": "# Upvote this: https://steemit.com/free/@bible.com/4qcr2i",
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      "permlink": "cheetah-re-potatrickwhat-causes-storms",
      "title": "",
      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/what-causes-storms-surfline-forecast-surf-science/2422",
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{
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      "parent_author": "",
      "parent_permlink": "surfing",
      "author": "potatrick",
      "permlink": "what-causes-storms",
      "title": "WHAT CAUSES STORMS?",
      "body": "Surfline user Josh writes:\n\n“Dearest Rad Forecasters,\n\nWhy does the South Pacific act up (send swell) during its winter & why does the North Pacific send us swell during winter? Essentially I see a tension between the fact that the hemisphere which is going through winter produces the strongest swell producing storms and the fact that hurricanes are strengthened by warmer waters (I’m assuming from thermal energy from the sun) which are associated with summer/fall. While in each hemisphere’s respective summer the swell machine is dormant. Am I comparing apples to oranges?\n\nThanks,\n\nJosh”\n\nHi Josh,\n\nExcellent question and one that comes up from time to time. I have also had several friends ask this same exact question.\n\nAnd there is a simple response for this – differential heating over the earth’s surface. Ok – that sounds all fancy and stuff but what does it mean in laymen’s terms? Well, the earth is unevenly heated; we generally have warm air in the tropics and cold air over the polar regions. This creates a contrast in temperatures over the globe between the equator and the poles. Weather, in the form of low and high pressure systems, acts to rearrange these temperatures in an ongoing effort to balance out this temperature difference between the hot and cold regions on the earth, a re-distribution of heat!\n\nSo now the next question invariably pops up – what purpose do tropical cyclones have in this whole scheme? Well the overall essence of the work that tropical systems perform in trying to re-distribute heat is the same. Only the processes by which this is done are different. Just as the air becomes generally colder from the equator to the poles, the oceans also generally become cooler from the equator to the poles. Now we do have ocean currents driven by the winds that act to redistribute this heat (i.e. Florida Current and the Gulf Stream) but the waters that make up the ocean can hold vast quantities of heat, much more so than air per unit quantity. Tropical cyclones extract this heat from the oceans, this in turn drives the tropical cyclone and these tropical cyclones redistribute this heat as they track across the globe. This distribution is generally from the equator to the poles as most tropical cyclones invariably will track generally northward.\n\nSo as you can see, weather has a never ending purpose in trying to balance out the temperature difference across the earth. As we approach the winter season the temperature contrast between the equator and the poles will increase and we expect the weather to act accordingly in its never ending quest to redistribute heat – and hopefully bring us some surf in the process!’\n\nIn conclusion, during the each respective hemisphere’s winter, we have the largest contrast in temperatures between the poles and the equator. In turn this large temperature contrast cranks out the strongest storms. Conversely, in the summer, the pole to equator temperature gradient is comparatively weaker and thus we see less storm activity in the summer hemisphere.\n\nHope this helps and feel free to fire back with any further questions.\n\nBest,\n\nMike Watson\n\nSurfline East Coast Manager/Forecaster",
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      "permlink": "why-negative-tides-are-less-extreme-than-high-tides",
      "title": "WHY NEGATIVE TIDES ARE LESS EXTREME THAN HIGH TIDES",
      "body": "An inquisitive Surfline user writes . . .\n\n“Can you explain why tides often go very high, but rarely go that far negative?”\n\nI was curious of this as well, and after doing some searching and talking among the forecast team, this is what we gathered…\n\nFor the tide scale, the zero foot mark is set at the lowest end of the scale; with the average level of low tide (Mean Low Water or MLW) at a specific place over a 19-year period. Therefore, the tide levels will usually have a much greater range through the positive foot scale, with only an occasional dip just below 0′ in the negatives. This scale system was most likely set in place for mariner purposes, as well as making the scale mainly one sided and easier to understand (ie. Having the bottom out low tide around 0′, and observing just how much water fills into the coast/harbors).\n\nCheers,\n\nJonathan Warren",
      "json_metadata": "{\"tags\":[\"surfing\",\"surfline\"],\"app\":\"steemit/0.1\",\"format\":\"markdown\"}"
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      "author": "biblegateway",
      "permlink": "re-potatrick-fluctuating-water-temps-20180625t031132058z",
      "title": "",
      "body": "# Upvote this: https://steemit.com/free/@bible.com/4qcr2i",
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      "author": "potatrick",
      "permlink": "fluctuating-water-temps",
      "title": "FLUCTUATING WATER TEMPS",
      "body": "“In regards to local water temp.. I am curious if the swell direction has anything to do with bringing in colder or warmer water.. I know it is winter and everything is colder, but I am curious if the local water temp has more to do with tides and currents than incoming swell events..\n\nMy friends and i always assume that a south swell will bring in warmer water and a north will bring colder… Is the water temp connected to incoming swell events?\n\nThanks – you guys are my first stop in the am\n\nBrandon Caldarella”\n\nBrandon,\n\nHow can the water temperature drop so suddenly? And what makes this happen? These are two questions which are asked a lot, and for a very good reason. The water temp can make or break a surf session or just a regular family day at the beach. One day you can be ‘skinning it’ in 75deg water, then the next morning wearing a full suit in 63deg water (that is if you were prepared and brought the suit for that session). Otherwise, you’d be sitting on the beach watching the surf in your baggies perplexed on how the water got so chilly.\n\nDue to the Coriolis Effect in the Northern Hemisphere, basically a body in motion deflects to the right. Therefore, as wind blows across the surface of the ocean, the general flow of the surface current will veer to the right. Taking a look at a West facing beach; a strong North wind will deflect the surface water along the coast towards the right. As the warmer surface water moves out to sea, deeper/colder water will fill in to replace the void in an upwelling process, thus colder water temperatures are brought to the surface! Furthermore, breaking waves along these beaches with upwelling will help with the mixing of colder water temperatures.\n\nFor Orange County, strong NW winds and windswell will bring those chilly water temps along the coast.\n\nS winds and warmer water temps; again with respect to a West facing beach… the warmer water temps on the surface of the water are brought in from the SSW (where warmer waters and air reside usually). Think about the above, but in reverse. ***A strong S wind and S current on the West facing beach, with the aid of wave action will also result in undertows.\n\nHope this helps some.\n\nJonathan Warren",
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      "title": "",
      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/refraction-vs-diffraction/2454",
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      "permlink": "the-difference-between-refraction-and-diffraction",
      "title": "THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN REFRACTION AND DIFFRACTION",
      "body": "A Physic’s definition of refraction involves a change in the direction of waves as they pass from one medium to another. This is due to energy conservation when a wave changes its wavelength, and thus wave speed, as it enters a new medium (like in light or sound waves traveling from air to water). Now, in terms of ocean waves, refraction also involves a change of direction when a wave experiences a shift in wavelength and wave speed. However, this shift generally occurs due to changes in ocean depth. As a wave travels from deep to shallow water, the wavelength shortens, the wave speed slows down, and the wave will refract, or bend, toward the shallow area in order to conserve its energy. This is commonly seen in deep water canyons where the wave encounters shallow water along the canyon’s edges, and the wave will bend/refract towards the shallow water. Sean Collin’s explains how this can benefit surfers in the previous blog “Waves at Newport Pier?”\n\nDiffraction occurs when a wave encounters an obstruction in its path and will change direction, or wrap around it. In ocean waves, we see this occur when a wave encounters an object like a jetty and the wave rotates around it (sometimes diffraction also occurs when a waves moves through a small opening in a seawall or between or two islands). The ‘wrapping’ or turning potential of a wave is larger in waves with a longer wavelength (i.e. longer period). This is why a long period Groundswell wave can sometime wrap a full 180 degrees around a barrier/jetty, whereas short-period Windswell wave will often shoot straight by it. Diffraction can occur in shallow or deep water and is separate from refraction since it is not a result of a change in ocean depth. However, both refraction and diffraction will involve a change in a wave’s direction.\n\nNow, you may see these two used interchangeably in ocean waves because we often see swell encountering an Island and both refraction and diffraction will occur in this case. The Island acts as a barrier and we see diffraction occur as the waves wrap around it. The bending of the waves then intensifies as they encounter shallower water around the Island, thus refraction occurs.\n\nHope this helps clear up the difference,\n\nThe Surfline forecast Team",
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      "title": "",
      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttp://www.surfline.com/surf-science/rating-of-surf-heights-and-quality_31942",
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      "author": "potatrick",
      "permlink": "surfline-s-rating-of-surf-heights-and-quality",
      "title": "SURFLINE’S RATING OF SURF HEIGHTS AND QUALITY",
      "body": "Have you ever wondered how does Surfline determines surf heights and quality ratings? If so, you’re in luck, because we dug through the archives to resurface this article from Surfline founder Sean Collins. Here’s what Sean had to say on the subject.\n\n“We used to have long debates about this before we launched Surfline’s 976-SURF in 1985. How do we accurately communicate surf heights and conditions for multiple spots along the coast in a single 60 second long pay-per-call recording to a large audience? Should we rate surf heights by the offshore swell heights, the backs of the breaking waves, or by surf face heights? And obviously what might be “GOOD” surf to one person may be “POOR” to another.\n\nTo ensure that our Surfline reporters would be consistently accurate, we wrote a Surf Reporter’s Manual and developed detailed surf report forms that needed to be filled out for each spot. We also agreed on a few fundamental rules.\n\nSURF HEIGHTS ~ Surf size ratings will always rate FACE HEIGHTS. We will also try to use BODY HEIGHTS as an additional scale because something as simple “4 feet” could still mean different things to different people. To some it would be shoulder high, to others 1-foot overhead, and to the Hawaiians more than 8 feet on the face. But if we say the surf is “4-foot faces at about shoulder high”, everyone would truly understand the size of the surf whether they agreed with our terminology or not.\n\nThe Surfline Surf Height Scale is below, and also assumes a surfer on a wave would have slightly bent knees.\n\n1′ = ankle-shin high\n2′ = knee-thigh high\n3′ = waist-belly high\n4′ = chest-shoulder high\n5′ = head high\n6′ = 1 foot overhead\n8′ = 3’overhead\n10′ = 5′ overhead or Double Overhead faces\n12′ = Double Overhead+ faces\n15′ = Triple Overhead faces\n20′ = It’s just really big\nHere is a great FORECASTER BLOG that goes into a more in depth explanation of our surf height rankings.\n\nAdvanced surfers may have higher expectations, so what might be rated GOOD by an average surfer might only be rated FAIR by an advanced surfer.\n\nSURF QUALITY ~ Ratings will be a mix from all of the variable conditions contributing to the overall surf quality and surfability of the surf for surfers of average ability. These contributing conditions will include wind and ocean surface smoothness quality; the overall wave shape of most of the waves; how the tide is affecting the surf with bumps, rips, and/or currents; and any other factors that might affect the surfability of the waves. We never want to limit the ratings to only one variable condition – such as a very glassy and clean water surface that might be rated GOOD. But if the waves are 1-foot and crumbly, it’s really POOR for surfing no matter how clean and GOOD the water surface may be.\n\nAdvanced surfers may have higher expectations, so what might be rated GOOD by an average surfer might only be rated FAIR by an advanced surfer. And what might be GOOD to an advanced surfer might actually be POOR for a beginning surfer because the surf might be too big for their ability. But as long as a surfer understands the quality of the surf regardless of their ability we will have accomplished our goal.\n\nThe Surfline Surf Quality Scale\n\n© Copyright 2000-2010 Surfline/Wavetrak, Inc.\n\n1 = FLAT: Unsurfable or flat conditions. No surf.\n2 = VERY POOR: Due to lack of surf, very poor wave shape for surfing, bad surf due to other conditions like wind, tides, or very stormy surf.\n3 = POOR: Poor surf with some (30%) FAIR waves to ride.\n4 = POOR to FAIR: Generally poor surf many (50%) FAIR waves to ride.\n5 = FAIR: Very average surf with most (70%) waves rideable.\n6 = FAIR to GOOD: Fair surf with some (30%) GOOD waves.\n7 = GOOD: Generally fair surf with many (50%) GOOD waves.\n8 = VERY GOOD: Generally good surf with most (70%) GOOD waves.\n9 = GOOD to EPIC: Very good surf with many (50%) EPIC waves.\n10 = EPIC: Incredible surf with most (70%) waves being EPIC to ride and generally some of the best surf all year.\nSurfers don’t usually consider WAVE CONSISTENCY but it’s a huge factor that can often make or break a good surf session. As an example, during an observed surf report most of the waves might be in the 2-3 foot range (knee to waist high) with poor to fair shape, but every 15 minutes or so a set of three head high+ waves might come in with great shape. In that case we might give it a 2-3 and FAIR rating but explain in the description that there are some better inconsistent set waves.\n\nWave consistency and the your personal wave count may vary greatly depending on the spot and the crowd. For a comparison, let’s say we have 50 surfers in the water during a 4-foot swell with sets that come in every 5 minutes with 3 waves per set (typical for an average Southern Hemisphere swell). That works out to a total of 36 waves per hour from that swell.\n\nAt a wide open beach break like Huntington there might be shifting peaks with a spread out crowd so there would be various opportunities to catch waves up and down the beach. But at a point break like Malibu most waves will be rideable all the way down the point, so generally the best surfers will catch most of the waves and have time to paddle back up the point before the next set arrives. If there are 50 people out at Malibu on a swell like this most people won’t get waves to themselves because there simply aren’t enough waves.\n\nA very consistent swell would be the same 4-foot swell with sets every 5 minutes, but now there are 10 waves in every set and that translates into 120 waves per hour. If we have those same 50 surfers out at Malibu there should be enough waves for just about everyone. But it’s more likely on a swell like this there would be 200 surfers and you know the best surfers will still be hogging all the better waves right? Face it, surfers are greedy souls…\n\nWave consistency is a very difficult variable to forecast and depends on how far away a surf spot is from the storm that generated the swell, the length and width of the storm fetch, the consistency and duration of the wind velocity in the fetch, and how the local bathymetry offshore will refract the swell into local spots. As we learn more about how to track and analyze storms we’ll continue to improve our forecasting of wave consistency.\n\nAnd who knows? Maybe in 5 years we’ll be able to tell you exactly how many waves there will be during each hour at every spot along the coast so you’ll really know before you go.\n\nIn the meantime, hopefully this blog will help you to understand how Surfline rates the surf so you can use us to score more waves.\n\nSee ya out there, Sean…”",
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      "title": "",
      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttps://www.surfline.com/surf-news/mechanics-saquarema/23440",
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      "title": "MECHANICS OF SAQUAREMA",
      "body": "The WSL World Championship Tour returns to Saquarema this week, one of Brazil’s premiere surfing arenas, for the Oi Rio Pro. Within the Saquarema zone, the WSL has the option of two breaks: Itaúna and Barrinha. \n\n\nItaúna is the more consistent of the two waves, and has been designated as the primary location for the contest. It works through a wide range of sizes, performing as a typical beachbreak with rights and lefts when the surf is smaller, and turns into a long left pointbreak when the swell gets bigger. \n\n\nHowever, we’re keeping our fingers crossed we get at least one day of competition at Barrinha, one of the best waves in Brazil. This spot needs a solid swell to show its face, but when it does, it’s one of the heaviest waves around, due to its unique wedging shape and sheer power.\n\nWIN A DREAM SURF TRIP\nTRY SURFLINE PREMIUM free and be entered to win an all-inclusive trip for two to the Mentawais.\nSurfline Forecast Mechanics Saquarema Rio de Janeiro Brazil\n\nThe image above displays a typical wintertime setup for high/low pressure to deliver swell for Brazil.\n\n– Winter storm season (strongest April to October) will see intense interactions between low and high-pressure systems, which deliver the biggest swells each year.\n\n– The winter storms generally push eastward, sending the bulk of the swell toward Africa, however, they occasionally take a jaunt northward, helping to increase swell potential for Brazil.\n\n– These southerly swells are comprised of mostly mid- to long-period energy. Also, the swell angle often gradually shifts from SW to S to SE as the storms track eastward.\n\n– Brazil sits north of the typical storm track and is usually spared from the inclement weather associated with winter storm fronts.\n\nSurfline Forecast Mechanics Saquarema Rio de Janeiro Brazil Wind Swell\n\nThe image above displays a typical windswell setup for Brazil, with strong high-pressure building over the South Atlantic.\n\n– High pressure often dominates the South Atlantic from October to April and can generate significant windswell events for the region from the counterclockwise wind flow on the eastern and northern periphery of the high.\n\n– This setup often occurs very near the coast, delivering onshore wind with the windswell, resulting in bumpy/choppy conditions.\n\n– Due to the shorter period nature of these windswell events, the surf tends to be more broken up than during longer period southerly swells. NOTE – Most beachbreaks favor the shorter period energy for better shape, or at least when this energy combines with the longer period swells.\n\n– Although extremely rare, tropical cyclones can develop in the South Atlantic between November and April. There has only been one hurricane in recorded history (Catarina – which made landfall in 2004).\n\nSwell Window\nSurfline Forecast Mechanics Saquarema Rio de Janeiro Brazil Swell Window\n\n– Itaúna and Barrinha have a wide open swell window from the SW to SE, extending over 2600nm south to Antarctica, and over 3200nm to the east under South Africa.\n\n– For Itaúna, the window from around 220° SW to 270° W is only open to localized windswell events due to the configuration of the South American coastline. Also, smaller swells east of 150° become shadowed by the rock outcropping, allowing less swell energy to wrap in. Larger ESE swells break outside the rocks, eliminating that shadowing factor. The larger ESE-SE to S swells are the ideal direction to focus energy for the left point.\n\n– For Barrinha, SE to ESE swells from around 150° to about 113° are too easterly in angle for the mechanics of the wave to function properly. The best angle for the wedging bowl is SW to SSE.\n\n– Wave travel time can range from around a day or less for windswell/chop generated by a local wind source, to over four days for longer period swells generated by storms tracking through the Southern Ocean.\n\nBathymetry\nAs noted in all Mechanics features, bathymetry plays a vital role in how waves behave when approaching and breaking along a coast. Differing bathymetric features refract more or less energy into different parts of the coast with every variation in swell direction and period.\n\nLonger period swells start to feel the effects of the underwater landscape sooner and to a greater extent than shorter period swells, as longer period wave energy extends deeper within the water column. With that said, keep in mind that waves will always refract toward shallower water. Some spots have an ideal setup, regularly resulting in larger or more consistent surf than nearby spots, and may offer better shaped waves as well. \n\nOther natural or manmade features can affect wave mechanics, such as rock outcroppings or jetties, which are present at both Itaúna and Barrinho.\n\nOffshore Bathymetry\nSurfline Forecast Mechanics Saquarema Rio de Janeiro Brazil Swell Bathymetry\n\nAvailable bathymetric data offshore of Saquarema suggest there are no major or unique features to note. Overall, the continental shelf in this zone gradually slopes off into deep water with fairly uniform contours (as shown in this chart). Therefore, incoming swells are not altered too much when approaching the coast, regardless of swell period.\n\nStarting at a depth of around 180ft (30 fathoms), longer period swells start to refract and focus toward this stretch of beach in Saquarema. Once the swell nears the coast, it is the local bathymetry of Itaúna and Barrinha that dictates how these spots behave.\n\nLocal Bathymetry\nSurfline Forecast Mechanics Saquarema Rio de Janeiro Brazil South Swell\n\nIncoming swell bends and focuses toward the entrapped sand that accumulates around the jetty of Barrinha and the rock outcropping of Itaúna. Longer period swell energy refracts at a greater degree, while shorter period swells refract less and approach the beach at a more direct angle. A portion of the wave energy also reflects off the rocks/jetty at an opposing angle and helps create shifty combo peaks.\n\nIn addition, there’s a deep channel running out from the inlet on the west end of the beach near Barrinha, refracting a significant amount of swell back into the surf zone. This converging energy is the driving force behind the powerful wedging peaks that Barrinha is known for.\n\nItaúna has a small channel or hole of deeper water near the rocks on the inside that also refracts some of the swell energy. On smaller days, and combining with the reflection off the rocks, this helps create peaky right and left wedges. On larger swells (especially southeasterly swells) the waves break off the end of the rocks and peel along the sandbank as a long left pointbreak.\n\nWind\nSurfline Forecast Mechanics Saquarema Rio de Janeiro Brazil Wind Barrinha Itauna\n\n– Like most spots, the ideal wind is calm to light offshore (NW-N-NE wind for Saquarema). Any light wind is favorable, even light onshore is ok.\n\n– The rock outcropping on the east end of the beach offers some protection for Itaúna on an easterly wind, while the jetty and bluff on the west end protect Barrinha on a westerly wind.\n\n– High pressure centered over the region usually results in light wind all day, light offshore in the morning and light onshore for afternoon, with mostly clear/sunny skies.\n\n– Stronger high pressure centered east or northeast of the region usually results in offshore flow, which can last all day or even consecutive days.\n\n– Any wind, even breezy onshore flow, is manageable when looking to maximize swell opportunities and potential for prolonged down spells. This comes into play during summer and for shorter period, local windswell events at the beachbreaks.\n\nBest Conditions for Itaúna\nBest Tide: Low to mid.\n\nBest Swell Direction: The left point works best with ESE-SE to South swell, but only from ESE-SE on large swells. The beachbreak works on anything from SW to ESE, and combos, on smaller days. \n\nBest Swell Period: Short to mid period best, but the point can handle larger long period swells. Beachbreak can handle a mix of long and short period. \n\nBest Wind: Calm to light wind, or offshore northerly flow (N-NE). Lighter easterly wind ok with protection from rock outcropping. Stronger WNW-W wind is a devil wind for the lefts. \n\nBest Size: Chest high to double overhead. The point can handle larger surf. \n\nBest Season: Fall, winter, spring. \n\nLocal Notes: The outside will often be fat, but occasionally offers good tubes on the inside section during the best days. There is also a shorter right that is good for maneuvers on the outside and can offer heavier, steeper walls on the inside.\n\nBest Conditions for Barrinha\nBest Tide: Low to mid. \n\nBest Swell Direction: SSW, but also good with S-SSE swells when the sand bank is well aligned.\n\nBest Swell Period: Mid period. \n\nBest Wind: Calm to light wind or offshore northerly flow (N-NW). Lighter westerly wind ok too with protection from bluff/jetty. Stronger ENE-E wind is a devil wind for the rights. \n\nBest Size: Overhead to triple overhead.\n\nBest Season: Fall, winter, spring. \n\nLocal Notes: Fickle for the big wedging right to work. This wave gets very hollow, and when it’s on, it can be compared with Hawaiian waves for its sheer power.",
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      "author": "cheetah",
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      "title": "",
      "body": "Hi! I am a robot. I just upvoted you! I found similar content that readers might be interested in:\nhttp://www.surfline.com/surf-news/wave-science-reaches-the-masses-on-the-weather-channels-wx-geeks-science-behind-the-surf----we-are-weather-gee_144520/",
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      "author": "potatrick",
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      "title": "SCIENCE BEHIND THE SURF – WE ARE WEATHER GEEKS",
      "body": "Surfline’s forecasters are some of the most learned people in all of surfing. Surfline’s Chief Meteorologist Mark Willis recently shared some of this wave knowledge and experience on The Weather Channel’s, WX Geeks, providing some valuable intel about the science behind the surf.\n\nhttps://youtu.be/sICHBWypCkA\n\nSurfline’s Chief Meteorologist Mark Willis appears on The Weather Channel’s “Wx Geeks”.\n\nYears of schooling in the exciting fields of physics, upper air dynamics, and differential equations are all that you must endure and conquer to achieve one of the most unique (and rare) professions on the planet — professional surf forecaster.\n\nBut academia is not the only path one must travel, years of acquired knowledge must be gained from studying and observing storms and swells, both from behind a computer and through first-hand water observations. This experience is as equally valuable as the textbook learnings and is vital for forecasting success, as the past likes to repeat itself.\n\nEvery surfer is a scientist from their own experiences, even if they don’t realize. We all may not understand each of the technical terms but knowing the basics, like wind creates waves and period impacts wave power, puts you light years ahead of the general public. So our Forecast Chief took the message of surf to the masses, or more precise, to a receptive audience of fellow weather aficionados.\n\nWx Geeks is a show produced by Meteorologists, for Weather Geeks, airing every Sunday at Noon ET on The Weather Channel. The show is hosted by Dr. Marshall Shepherd, former NASA scientist and current Director of University of Georgia’s Atmospheric Sciences Program, exploring the most important topics in the weather community. And this episode focused on a very important topic, “Science Behind the Surf.”\n\nWatch the replay, you just might learn something — or learn you know more than you realized. And you just might recognize the Geek of the Week, the first-ever in a hooded 5/4.",
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