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      "body": "从昆明到南伞口岸，从果敢到佤邦特区，再从邦康直插金三角的心脏——大其力。整个自驾行程辗转3000公里，一路上我们遇到了许多平生难得一见的风景，更遇到一些难以忘怀的事情。\n\n缅甸大穿越｜缅甸军方派出了一支部队夹道欢迎我们的到来\n![3ecb0002486dd72d6c5a.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmbRhLPCx3GGaetehdT19gz5D97PBQpDFLuAEdbNEvHzqQ/3ecb0002486dd72d6c5a.jpg)\n缅甸军方正在清除一片罂粟种植园\n\n金秋九月的一个早上，我们由十四辆越野车组成的公益禁du宣传车队已在临沧市镇康县南伞中缅口岸等待出境。面前是一座大桥，正中为中缅国界，这边是中国，那边是缅甸掸邦第一特区——果敢。放眼过去，缅甸方面的军人也早已摆好了欢迎我们的队形。\n\n有军队“出面欢迎”的理由很简单，近期缅甸北部各地局势动荡，出于安全和外交的考虑，缅甸政府特为我们协调了缅北地区的各系政府和非政府武装部队，要求他们为我们此行尽量提供方便和必要保护。尽管有军队给“撑腰”，但个别车友心态仍旧好不起来。接下来的故事就在我们跨过国境线，进入缅甸大门的那一刻开始了！而我们也仿佛通过这扇门走进了戏里。\n\n缅甸大穿越｜缅甸军方派出了一支部队夹道欢迎我们的到来\n![3eb300027ab889c29d66.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmaWPPY1NhjRk6Wz5udJK9wVzZcXF2fk5xLqEaGQtYqyg1/3eb300027ab889c29d66.jpg)\n南伞中缅边境口岸\n\n\n骤然而起的欢迎曲，吹吹打打；开道的军车，领头断尾，皮卡上的缅甸士兵紧握枪械；沿街的缅甸百姓，有自发站立的，也有一个个单位列队排立的；还有缅方记者，肩扛手提着摄像机奔前跑后。街边一位缅甸老人，右手持军号，左手高行军礼，面向我们的车队，神态庄严，表情凝重，旁若无人。老人又气宇轩昂地吹着军号。尽管曲调走样，但没人笑话他。身边的缅政府军向导告诉我，这位老人是中国人，是前国军93师的一位老兵。\n\n缅甸大穿越｜缅甸军方派出了一支部队夹道欢迎我们的到来\n![3ec800026eec40a4b8ec.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmUjK7CRGpCEVCPuRwu9DVfBiubhT8P5YNf7oAnaNbgAgp/3ec800026eec40a4b8ec.jpg)\n吹号的老兵\n\n眼前的果敢，很久以前只是一片原始森林。300年前，南明的永历帝在清兵的追杀下一路逃到了云南昆明，后遭吴三桂十万大军三路追逼，永历帝及其母、妻、百姓、遗臣武将等逃至缅甸境内。吴三桂逼迫缅甸国王交出永历帝并押解回昆明，一年后被吴三桂用弓弦勒死在昆明逼死坡。话回当年，永历帝的大批随从仍死不降清，他们在荒漠之地隐姓埋名顽强地生栖繁衍，历经数代。发展至今，他们如今说的仍是中国话，写的仍是中国字，保留的仍然是中华民族的传统习俗。即使被缅甸强制更名为“果敢族”，但在他们心里，大北方才是他们魂牵梦萦的归宿。据说，晚清时期英军占领缅甸后，在1894年与清政府的边境条约中，明确记载果敢地区属中国管辖地界，但在1897年之后，迫于英国方面的压力，终将果敢划归英属缅甸。于是，这本属于云南的热土，成了永远回不来的土地，而南明遗民也将永远成为飘零的游子。\n\n\n![3eca000260e3105566fe.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmU1GGmB8ANqQamq2436WfLqJpTvqHVGasxsRiKehDM59t/3eca000260e3105566fe.jpg)\n中缅边境缅方一侧列队欢迎我们的缅军\n\n在缅甸排华年代，果敢人不准讲汉语，不准写汉字。从那时起，果敢便开始与缅甸相互不信任。1950年缅甸给果敢人发放身份证件，遭到集体抵制。如今，果敢人有缅甸身份证的仍然不足百分之五。100年前，往来于南方丝绸之路的云贵高原的马帮活跃在这一带，其中一部分人也在此地生存下来。随后，还有解放战争后由云南逃入缅甸的前国军93师官兵，部分撤到了台湾，其中以云南人为主的2000多人则留了下来。这些人，在历史变迁的巨大洪流中，无可选择、又顽强的生存着。我又想起了那位吹军号的老人，想起了老人眼底凝重的神色。\n\n我们的车队在下午炙热的阳光、飞扬的尘土、破旧的街道、沿街欢迎的百姓和一架架摄像机的交织中，骄傲地驶入果敢第一特区银丰酒店。晚宴时，有不少当地名流到场。陪同在座的一位大人物建议我们晚饭后到街上逛逛，并表示这里很安全：\n\n“你们就说中国话，畅通无阻。”说着他手指用劲的一点桌子，“其实就是云南话！”\n\n我问：“你们到底算什么身份？”\n\n答：“我们像从前的犹太人。”\n\n果敢的夜晚，没有路灯，窄窄的小街只有一间间店铺昏暗的灯光把灰尘和破旧掩饰。当中突兀地夹杂着几处光芒耀眼的博彩厅，还有红灯区一排红光暧昧的按摩店。光线映照着偶尔驶过的左道车和右道车，其间居然还有美国二战时的老式吉普车。\n\n缅甸大穿越｜缅甸军方派出了一支部队夹道欢迎我们的到来\n![3ec800026fb89396b320.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmYxHmNEGFvhqckSYWsYPbyVMJrDAQc4WakMjeNHykuVp2/3ec800026fb89396b320.jpg)\n果敢那覆灭的“希望”\n20世纪初，这里因高温湿热的气候而盛产优质的罂粟（俗称大烟，源于罂粟植物蒴果），以果敢老街为聚散地，形成一年一度的鸦 片集贸盛事。汇集到此的有中国人，有泰国人，有印度人，还有英国人。直到五年前这里一个叫丫口的集市，烟农们买卖鸦片的场景如同买卖一般日用品一样自然，但如今果敢已明令全面禁毒！随着禁 du法令的颁布，在当地沿袭了一个世纪的“经济链条”被斩断，这究竟对当地赖此生存的百姓有多大影响呢？\n\n\n![3ec800027005ca37723b.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmX9mCu6YfKxS9kR4KQut3a65EhNW6YWnBnwPVRsnTzDV3/3ec800027005ca37723b.jpg)\n仿佛正在滴血的罂粟花\n\n每年九十月份是缅甸罂粟播种的时候，只把比芝麻粒还小一些的灰白色大烟籽撒在土里，翻一下，再用土盖上，在果实成熟之前都不用再管理了，所以在当地罂粟也被称作“懒汉庄稼”。待到来年的二月份，漫山遍野的罂粟花开时火红一片，如残阳滴血，奇异的花香满山弥漫。罂粟花期只有三天，而后便结果。收割时要用特制的刀划开果实，收集流出的乳白色浆液，待白浆凝固后就会变成黑色或褐色，这就是鸦片。四月份，金三角周边各地的鸦片交易就热闹开场了。烟农们用出售鸦片的钱换来盐巴、布料等日用品，在他们的观念里，鸦片并不是du品，而是药，或者是赖以生存的农作物。\n\n\n![3eca000261f2bd833b6f.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmXBMgMo6ALetkwxh2y8cetEfVe8WL3gFBQ7cGMYmuTjJK/3eca000261f2bd833b6f.jpg)\n缅甸当地的老人\n\n车队沿着崎岖的乡间土路颠簸着，裹挟着大团大团的烟尘冲进了一座偏僻的寨子。寨子里十分冷清，街边除了几位懒洋洋的村民之外，就是几条狗不停地对着我们狂吠。我走下车，询问一位当地人：“100多年的罂粟种植史，禁 du不困难吗？”他告诉我：“如果哪个村有人还敢种罂粟，就把村长扔进一个两米多深、只容一人站立的深坑，让他自生自灭。十五天后，如果他还活着，就拉出来放生。”这是一种小群体自发形成的惩罚方式，很有效，禁du三年以来，在果敢地区只有1位村长被处罚过。\n\n\n![3ecd00005dce9d69f88b.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmdp53w2ZnjNyVSsdhZSSmCwqAfFr74NNos2rJBBh8u8to/3ecd00005dce9d69f88b.jpg)\n黄昏时分，果敢的山区云雾弥漫\n\n\n![3ecb00024adb983b82db.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmdh2qrxCKQnqwM5TxYyQ8U3UrvD9yDMzNi7StW9qe1oUP/3ecb00024adb983b82db.jpg)\n果敢军人的篝火之夜\n\n第二天一早，我们来到了位于果敢东城区的禁毒展览馆参观，而后到果敢中小学校捐款。中餐后，还观看了果敢大庙。果敢近百年的历史是各民族武装割据、称雄，并贩运毒品的血泪史。当地有一位据说是永历帝残部的罗姓大将，他的第十代后裔罗星汉是前东南亚地区的头号大毒枭；另外，自称是汉人的坤沙也是威震金三角的世界头号大毒枭。在果敢，中国的流散老兵举办了华文学校和训练班，老师是原国军黄埔军校毕业生，罗星汉和坤沙都师从此校；彭家声，果敢同盟军的总司令，叱诧金三角五十年，被称为“果敢王”，也曾是此校学生。\n\n\n![3ecd00005d3f0d52cbc2.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmWDQeQX2S9CwwC7AKEzuVUb69ksT7MTp7CESAcz6wJ78q/3ecd00005d3f0d52cbc2.jpg)\n收割的罂粟果\n\n\n![3ecb00024a6d00b0761e.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmZMiMyZVC5JuKErLiXm3FpseLoU5oCeWHVynb4NyPsD42/3ecb00024a6d00b0761e.jpg)\n罂粟果\n\n下午4点半，由果敢军方护送，我们从果敢城区出发前往清水河特区的勐阿大桥，这是通往金三角腹心地的一条最佳路线。公路两旁除了大片的甘蔗林（禁毒令颁布之前这里种的全是罂粟田），就是绵延的旷野，我们的车队承受着强烈阳光的直射。20分钟后，前方出现崇山峻岭，车队乘风破浪而去，直插入这片连绵的山脉中。大约45公里后，车队抵达勐阿大桥。这是一个三角形地带，一方通向中国云南的思茅孟连（今普洱市辖），一方是从果敢方向来时的路，另一方即过了大桥就是佤邦第二特区的实际控制区域。掸邦第一特区果敢的军队不能进入佤邦的势力范围，只能送我们到这里，以后的护送由佤邦联合军接手。过了桥，站在坡头回望掸邦第一特区，一段历史渐渐退进云雾。车队的前方是云遮雾绕的神秘佤邦。\n\n\n![3ec8000271978b250214.jpg](https://steemitimages.com/DQmWV4x7otj16JSeoBTbsZE29cD8QHJPxr1KMBEzovPW12N/3ec8000271978b250214.jpg)\n自驾金三角示意图",
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